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The Chef

The End of an Empire

The day after a holiday has proven to be historically slow for me, business-wise at Pata Negra.  Call it the hangover due to the extra day off, and the harsh reality of the workweek slamming us on Tuesday.  The humidity and rain didn’t help matters; just ask Roddick or Sharapova at the U.S. Open.   Business owners like to offer explanations for slow nights, in part to make themselves feel better, and also to occupy the mind so as not to go stark mad from boredom and despair.

The only small, saving grace is the opportunity to close early or at least on time. Alas, even that was taken away from me by a first time date who were hitting it off really nicely, pushing the closing time past my proposed expectations, destroying any visions of tying one off at a local bar.  Don’t get me wrong. It makes me happy when new romances bud at my place.  I even have several customers who celebrate their first dates and anniversaries.  Playing Cupid feels good.

I think they looked up and realized they were in a romantic bubble, all on their own, and granted mercy to me.  I thank them and wish them love’s best.

Then after closing, I hailed a cab on first avenue, routine for every late night I have ever spent at Pata Negra.  If the subway actually worked at 2 am, it would be the first option, but good luck with that.  I believe that in order to keep the New York City economy working, it is our responsibility to spend money in our fair Gotham.  It is important to keep dining out, supporting local businesses if possible, and taking cabs sometimes.  If residents stop fueling the economy, people lose jobs, mom and pop shops close, and the result is the land of Duane Reade and 7-Eleven.  I am not advocating spending money you don’t have.  Moderation is the key.  Just don’t shut it down in panic.

As I caught up on Twitter feeds, trying to avoid the LXTV banter, I raised my head up and I was safely home.  I looked up at the fare and the taximeter read $19.50.  I asked the cabbie if there was something wrong with his meter.  Perhaps it is too fast.  I usually pay $16.00. He replied that the rates went up.  In disbelief I googled “taxi fare hike” and sure enough, the first ten hits confirmed a surcharge and 17% increase.  The article went on to explain how this would help the cabbies offset gas prices and inflation.  I could barely leave the cab.  I was stunned.

Backtracking to the start of Tuesday, I had spent a considerable amount of time with the managing agent for the space I rent for Pata Negra.  The actual owners of the building are investors from the Midwest, so talking to an “owner” is not possible.  The topic of contention was yet another real estate tax increase.  For those of you not in the biz, the City of New York assesses each building every year and assigns a value to each property.  Then the City judges whether there should be an increase in property value or decrease.  In other words, the City raises taxes or lowers taxes.  As commercial tenants, leases are designed so that a fraction or all of the real estate taxes are passed on to the renters, even though the renters do not own the property.  Savvy landlords include this rider in commercial leases, saving them thousands of dollars.

I opened Pata Negra during the height of the recession in February 2008.  I did not anticipate the taxes to be substantial.  But what I should have done was note who was in charge.  Mayor Michael Bloomberg.  The taxes assessed were $6,500 for 2009-2010, $12,000 for 20010-2011, then $17,500 for 2011-2012, and now $21,000 for 2012 – 2013.  The final raise in taxes results in an increase of over 50% of the rent.

How does the property value increase during a recession?  What is the magic formula that calculates the property value? Will the taxes ever stabilize?

And now you know why, the cost of running a business goes up, and why the goods and services provided to the public goes up accordingly.  The small business people who can’t make it go into debt and simply close.  Not the trendy deep pocket, deep investor hot chef hot spots, real people businesses.  The integrity of the neighborhood changes, as large corporations move in, and the landscape changes dramatically.  That is why as a resident you see the same thing every other block, an ATM, drug store, or large chain.  Mom and pop, retire.  Small business owner. Too bad.  Go back to work for someone like most other people.  As long as the City is getting paid, why not continue to raise the real estate tax?

When the third term Mayor states he is for small business, he is talking out of two sides of his mouth.  The real estate stealth tax is murdering the entrepreneurial spirit.  It is decimating the genuine neighborhood landscape.  And if you are a restaurant owner trying to earn that shiny “A” on that front door, get ready to pay for that too.  The City has earned over $50 million in fines in the first nine months alone.

And where is all of this real estate tax money going?  Our successful school system?  I taught special education for junior high schools in two of the toughest neighborhoods for thirteen years.  Believe me when I tell you that the school system turns no profit and so the Mayor is not interested in fixing the public school system.  Each pupil costs $20,000 dollars per year to educate and as far as the Mayor is concerned that is a loss, red ink.  Forget about cultivating seeds for the future.  Only the well to do families or culturally intelligent (knowledgeable about the system and its subsidies) can afford private schools.  If a child makes it out of public school and succeeds, the child is doing so in spite of the education system.  Why has no one asked the question that a Mayor who can run a billion dollar business cannot put the right people in place to fix the public school system?  Why not pump much of this tax revenue into our schools?

Instead, a fortune (albeit mostly federal funding) was put into creating green spaces and bike lanes that only bike messengers and delivery men use or misuse, depending on which direction they are headed. Every cabbie I have spoken to on my way home from work complains over the amount of tickets they have received for picking up passengers “illegally”.  Where are the cabbies supposed to pick up their fares?  They can’t pick up on the bike lane.  They can’t pick up in the bus lane.  Catch 22 for tickets. Clever boy.

And now the Mayor wants to restrict the size of soft drinks sold to help fight obesity.  I applaud the Mayor for this initiative.  I myself have a weakness for Coca-Cola and it certainly contributes to my extra weight and ensuing health problems.  As a former educator I can’t tell you how many obese teens drowned themselves in large Tropical Fantasy soda bottles and red or purple sugary grenade shaped drinks.  More than candy, the kids love their sugary drinks.

Do you know how many times the average child in the public school system attends a physical education class?  Twice per week.  Absent that day.  Oh well.  Why not implement a citywide fitness program that addresses this crisis?  But the Mayor has chosen soda as his enemy, when there is a larger, more formidable opponent – Big Tobacco.  If the Mayor wants to take credit for banning cigarettes from places of business and public venues, why not finish the job?  All the studies have proven that cigarettes kill.  So why not take on Big Tobacco and ban cigarettes altogether?  Non-smokers have to breathe second hand smoke against our will and the pollution level in the city is ridiculous.  On a recent trip to Vermont I was astounded at what clean air actually feels like.

But the Mayor will not pick this fight, after all he has a business to run, and he only picks battles that he is sure he can win, like taxing small business with a magical system, fining cab drivers for illegal pick ups, or charging millions of dollars in fines to small restaurants.  The Mayor will gladly tax tobacco sales for the revenue of course.

Why not pick a fight with the NRA, and once and for all make New York City safer than any other metropolis in America?  Two more people were shot over the weekend attending the West Indian parade in Brooklyn.  The year is 2012 and New York City still has its fir share of gun violence.  Seriously?  Welfare of the people?  Soda size?

I am sure the Mayor is looking into another loophole to be elected to a fourth term, mayor for life, taxing and fining the hard working class that makes this city go, to death or departure, whichever comes first.  I for one want an advocate for New York City, not just the wealthy and the Wall Street community.  A mayor who will not fight teacher, fireman or police unions for a fair wage, or impose unsubstantiated stealth taxes and fines to suffocate the working class.  With housing prices absolutely unaffordable, the Mayor has already forced much of the working class to leave the actual city they work in, fringing in suburbs and depleted barrios, contemplating monthly whether or not they can make ends meet.

As a business owner I have been repeating the mantra, “Survival is the new success.” Wouldn’t it be nice to actually build something, earn a living and actually be able to keep it?  Perhaps I am laying too much blame at the feet of the Mayor.  There is the City Council, and legislature at Albany to consider for policy making too.  But as leader of this City, I expect him to protect its citizens and facilitate our progress.  For this reason, I cannot give him a passing grade.  The next mayor may do worse for our fair city, as the blueprint for making money is well established by the current administration.  I can only hope that the next candidate will come from a more reasonable meager hardworking background, so the candidate can at least relate to the dilemma of being an average working person in this Empire city that seems to be no longer ours.

 

 

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Drinking Eating Experiences Food Travel Wine

Masters of Vermont

Each year I head over to Europe just before the tourist high season kicks in.  For me it is a great time to visit winemakers and the most agreeable time weather-wise before the heat becomes a factor.

This time when I returned from Italy/Ireland/Spain in early June, Pata Negra had been running on fumes.  My head waiter Gaspar had been ill from exhaustion, and the search for capable server staff had proven futile.  This was a blessing in disguise of course, as I was able to take the reins for nearly two months straight.  There is something to be said for getting back in the woodshop, as it were, and I enjoyed a fruitful, albeit swarthy reintroduction to my customers.  By the time the humidity cooled off in August I was gasping for some fresh air, peace and quiet.  The North Fork looked good on paper, but this late in the season, there were slim rental pickings.  I finally settled on Vermont, a haven I am familiar with from past ski trips, and an unexplored territory for summer jaunts.

I did my research through VRBO and HomeAway.  I found both sites full of options to my criteria.  About four hours drive, secluded, but near a Lake, State Park, and half hour drives to towns and points of interest.  Got a hit on HomeAway for a chalet in Ludlow, surrounded by trees and Okemo mountain range.

So with a rental car at Hertz, GPS, and old school maps, we (girlfriend Michelle and I) were Vermont bound.  We took Routes 684 to 84 to 91.  Save for two traffic construction delays we hit Putney in four hours.  Why Putney?  For Curtis BBQ of course.  Right off Exit 4 juxtaposed to the Mobil gas station is Curtis BBQ, two school buses painted blue and reconfigured to serve as kitchens.   Park the car, step up and order.  Then head over to the man-made BBQ pit and watch Curtis work his magic alongside his guardian pig C.J.  You can get ribs or chicken, slathered with Curtis’ special sauce.  When you chat with pit masters like Curtis I often get the sense that they have something figured out in this life, that time spent barbecuing is time spent thinking wisely.  Curtis is a master and an evolved soul.   When the grub is ready, you pick a park bench with the least amount of flies and critters and chow down.  Falling off the bone chicken with perfect degree of smoke, tender rubs slathered in that special finger lickin’ sauce.  Plenty of good sides like baked potato with all the trimmings, corn on the cob, or potato salad, all washed down with beer you bring or Vermont style root beer and sasparilla sodas.  Satisfaction Guaranteed.

The house was better than advertised with a huge porch and backyard facing Okemo.  During the day, the trees communicate by shaking in the wind.  At night it’s just you and the stars.

Now I had been to Ludlow before and knew of some staples, such as Singleton’s in Proctorsville where you can get all the meat you need for the grill.  The Hatchery is also a go to place for standard Vermont breakfast.  Goodman’s American Pie is still cranking out the best wood fired pizza pies.  The Wine and cheese shop still offer a great selection of both.  Got some cheese from Jasper Hill.  The wine selection was also varied and well chosen.  I even found some Poiré from Eric Bordelet.

We had a really nice lunch at Heritage Deli, perfect Reuben sandwich and feathery French toast, but we found ourselves returning to the Country Girls Diner in Chester, taken over last summer by you guessed who (country women), offering fabulous blueberry pancakes and pies to boot.  It’s the kind of place run by the ladies that you could see yourself going every day for breakfast or lunch.  I didn’t have the courage to try their monster (two grilled sandwiches between a burger or eggs), but enjoyed the regular sized food very much.

We dined at the Inn at Weathersfield, one of the quintessential farm to table restos Vermont is known for, and had a very balanced meal.  A half bottle of Bauer Gruner Veltliner and Begali Ripasso paired well with the New American cuisine of Chef  Jason Tostrup .  The trout was clean, crespelle plate cleaned out and short ribs succulent. Chef Jason is still on his game.

At Manchester, after an afternoon of outlet shopping, there is a new Mediterranean themed menu anchored by pizzas named Depot 62.  Sit down on the furniture (everything is for sale), order a glass of wine and browse, the pieces offered are artisanal and eclectic, albeit pricey.  The hummus is good, the tagines earthy, and the pizza tasty.  Depending on how much wine consumed, you might leave with a piece to put in the trunk.

Even found a legit place for lobster rolls at Bob’s Antique shop, another dual business model where you can peruse through a large house of great antique pieces and nosh on a meaty and well-seasoned lobster roll.  One night we ordered a couple of three pounders, took them home for a steam with some corn, and delighted in some succulent lobster meat with drawn butter.  Paired great with young Muscadet.

By far the most cherished discovery is The Downtown Grocery, across from the wine and cheese shop.  The team at this humble eatery is top-notch, from Chef Rogan Lechthaler to Matthew on cocktails, to Abby working the front of the house.  We were in Vermont a week and visited three times.  Had they been open Tuesdays or Wednesdays, make that five.  What is the formula for their success?  Real cooking, great hospitality and sincerity.  The menus changes slightly, nightly.  One night a porchetta, the next magret.  Start off with steamed pork buns, or a luxurious corn soup, or spicy mussels with a curry aioli.  Specials included Plew Farms chicken crostini and Long Island blowfish tails.  Finish with buttermilk bacon ice cream or ginger lemongrass sorbet.  There’s a value mind-blowing $25. Prixe-fixe.  Outstanding.  I don’t know how they do it.

One night at the bar, Matthew poured us some of his fishhouse summer punch, a great expression of his techniques and bartending skill.  We tried most of the cocktails on the menu.   They would stack up to any mixologist in New York.  Like I said, sad only in that they closed two days before we departed back for NYC.

Perseid painted the night sky dreamy for us one starry evening, trailing trains of wishes on those bright tails.  We sipped Croft Vintage port and wondered at the heavens, how small we all are in the grand scheme of things.

A week later, on our way back to the grind and the city of hustle, we stopped of at Curtis again for take out, along with the obligatory maple syrup and jams, so Vermont could linger just a bit longer with us when we got home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories
The Chef

The tragedy of a Knicks fan

I was born in 1970 in New York City which means two things.  First, that I am a Knickerbocker fan by default, no talk of Brooklyn Nets back then. Second, I didn’t know that I missed what were the glory days of New York City basketball.  The only game I ever picked up as a kid growing up in New York was basketball.  All you needed was a pair of kicks and some game, and you could play anywhere for free. Basketball cut across all boundaries.  That is the beauty of the sport.

I just recently finished Harvey Araton’s great recount of “Clyde, The Captain, Dollar Bill and the glory days of The New York Knicks” in “When The Garden Was Eden.”  Great treasured insight into an all-time great team.

Makes me even respect and like Phil Jackson.

I suffered through the 1980’s, despite a brief glimpse at a superstar Bernard King, who lit up the mecca of basketball with his prolific scoring.  But until New York won the lottery and years of promise with Patrick Ewing, the only excitement in town was in watching Chris Mullin’s Redmen and those classic battles against the despised Georgetown Hoyas.

Yes, the 80’s belonged to L.A. and Boston, and although I got great pleasure in rooting for Bird versus Magic, I longed for the Knicks to be relevant.  Thereafter reigned the Detroit Piston Bad Boys, until the arrival of the great Michael Jordan who everyone embraced.  We loved to watch Air Jordan drop 40 but lose by one to the home team.  Who knew the Knicks could never figure out how to beat his Airness despite our thuggery on defense (remember Oakley and Mason?).

Even when Michael went all baseball crazy and gave us a brief window of opportunity, the Knicks still fell short, whether it was three missed Charles Smith dunk attempts, Starks shooting 1 for 30 against Houston, or Ewing missing a finger roll vs. the Pacers.  The Knicks could not bring home a championship.  Losses to the state of Texas were devastating blows to Knicks fans, realizing that Olajuwon, Duncan, and Robinson were probably better than our beloved, beleaguered Ewing. There were other worthy villains, such as the Miami Heat, with visions of Coach Van Gundy clinging to the ankle of a swinging Alonzo mourning.  Some of those victories over Miami were sweet.  Thank you Allen Houston.  And who can forget Spike Lee vs. Reggie Miller.  Boy did I hate Reggie Miller and his omniscient choke sign.

And what was the front office doing to bring us a championship?  Well, first the Rangers figured it out.  I remember celebrating at a bar on the Upper West Side, not much of a hockey fan, wondering what it would feel like to enjoy a Knicks victory. Then came a littany of point guards, from Marc Jackson on down to the current situation.  Bad contract after bad pick in succession, from Rod Strickland to Stephon Marbury, to Greg Anthony, to Stevie Francis, all talented, misunderstood shooting guards with score first mentalities.  Drop digits and lose.  No Mo Cheeks or Derek Harper or hot dog Marc Jackson with his pre-Santonio Holmes Jet plane celebration.  Just bad point guard play and contract after bad point guard contract.

Here’s the thing about those 90’s teams.  They were fun to watch.  They tried hard.  They represented the city with hard work and a no nonsense approach to defense.

We loved those Knick teams because they shared the goals of the working class, trying to succeed in NYC.  Us against the world

And since then what have the Knicks become?  Not even Louis Orr or Darrell Armstrong and Ken “the animal” Bannister.  No Bob Thornton lunch pail.  No, the Knicks have become egomaniacal superstars trying to copycat and compete with the Miami Heat.  They are unwatchable.  Consequently I have stopped playing street ball, and adopted my girlfriend’s team, the Chicago Bulls.  Watch them play defense.  Watch them share the ball.  Check out Noah’s enthusiasm.  To bad Derrick Rose got hurt.  I would have loved to see them beat the Heat.

Before you slice me with a metrocard for even entertaining any team other than the Knicks, let me plead my case.

This is why the Jeremy Lin debacle is so sad.  The final straw.  For a small window of games last year, the Knicks were fun to watch again, relevant even.  I was excited, proud to be a part of a movement: winning.  An unsung hero gets dropped on our laps from the basketball heavens, ready to resurrect the Knick fan base, forcing cable companies to settle their differences, and what does the Knick management do?  They fumble the ball.  They cause the worst turnover of their career.  They almost did the same many years ago.  Willis Reed was signed by pure luck.

So what do we have left?  A “superstar” who hogs the ball and has won how many playoff series in nine years?  How does he inspire everyone else on the team to play harder?  By saying great leadership opinions like that is a ridiculous contract?  What is ridiculous is Carmelo’s playoff track record.  I am not saying Lin is better than Melo.  But Lin made us believe. He made players better.  He carried a team without either superstar.  Instead of being jealous, Melo could take a page out of how Lin inspired a city, take fewer shots, play defense and rise in the fourth quarter when we need him.

The other superstar?  Stoudemire, seriously, how long before another twisted back on the dunk line or smashing his other fist through plate glass.  What a leader.  He couldn’t win in Phoenix with the best point guard at that time, and so what is that head case gonna accomplish now?  The Knicks cannot win with either of them.

Jeremy Lin can’t go left.  He is turnover prone.  He is not worth that contract.  All these things are probably true.  But for a while there he brought us true enjoyment.  He shot over Dirk, scored more than Kobe, and was the toast of the town.  He has NY swagger, he trash talked, wasn’t afraid to take the big shot, and uplifted the play of his teammates.  The Knicks were playing defense again.  Shumpert and J.R. Smith, even Melo got low.  Novak and Landry became more confident, Chandler played lights out defense.  Then Lin got hurt, and they weren’t the same team, bowing out in the playoffs again.

Against the Heat perhaps Lin should have played, but no one knows the state of his knees better than him. Besides, he needed to look out for himself.  He knew that Knicks management would play around with his contract, suck him bone dry for Linsanity, raise ticket prices, and compensate him at a minimum.  And that’s exactly what happened.  They could have come in with a strong offer.  Instead they played games, and now Lin is gone, and people want to make him out to be greedy.  Dolan was outsmarted and now who will watch what’s left of this team?  I for one will not.  They are not a fun team to watch.  They haven’t been for a long time, and with an owner who so obviously doesn’t care about the fan base either…

I am sure I will peak in at our two resident superstars from time to time, and will continue to root for them against hated rivals, but until the Knicks are fun to watch again, I’ll keep the channel on UCONN women’s basketball, or the Bulls, or bury my head in Jets football and March madness.

Glory days pass you by, or in my case passed me by.  All I’ve got is MSG re-broadcasts and “When The Garden Was Eden” to cheer on the old, fun Knicks.  For right now, the mecca of basketball is dead.

Categories
Drinking The Chef Travel Wine

Gramona

Cava can be very good.  As good as Champagne?  That is always the question that sneaks into the conversation.

Over at Corkbuzz Studio, Laura Maniec has launched a Champagne Campaign offering all Champagnes at half price after 10 pm nightly.  There are many other reasons to visit Corkbuzz, from the selective wine list to the knowledgeable service to the wine-friendly food.    I cannot often get my hands on Champagne at those great prices, and so turn to cava for my bubbly fix.

So many parts of Spain have made great leaps in terms of viniculture and producing great wines, but it has been my experience that in the production of cava, there has been a disconnect.  The U.S. marketplace is wrought with bulk cava that has not traveled well, tasting musky as if stored in the corner of a cobwebbed closet under summery conditions.  The cheap, bulk product that is so available at every corner wine shop is not indicative of the actual quality that can be produced when in the hands of serious winemakers.  Seventy percent of the cavas produced in the D.O. are released after nine months.

Just check any wine list at any restaurants in Barcelona, any you will find several cavas of quality, aged, and of vintage.  Many cuvees are without dosage, making for bone dry wines of distinction showcasing the xarel-lo characteristics.

Last week Ana Lidon, from Gramona winery in Penedes, presented on a vertical of Gramona cava ranging as far back as 1997 to the latest release of 2006. The tasting was hosted by Enrique Ibanez of IPO Wines, leaders in Spanish wine importing.   The results were extraordinary.

The winery dates back to 1881, becoming officially named Gramona in 1921.  Gramona ages cava a minimum of 18 months, and an average of four years.  The Gran Reserva Imperial and Lustros III were poured, blends of xarel-lo and macabeo, two of the principal grapes that comprise a basic cava.  I have had much experience in tasting and buying these wines for Pata Negra, but had not tasted them vertically.

The wines had a true champagne quality, exhibiting toasty aromas, bright acidity, and great structure.

Much of what Ana Lidon presented had to do with the winery’s efforts to be agro-biodynamic, a self-sufficient ecosystem that generates its own energy, creating an optimum environment with low carbon footprint whose goal is to create the best cava possible.

Then came the showstoppers, the Gran Reserva Celler Batlle, from 1997 to 2002, some of which have been aged nine years on the lees!  Featuring the great acidity and structure of the xarel-lo grape, these long aged wines undergo autolysis which produces cava of great quality, elegant, exuberant, focused wines of subtle texture and a celebratory spirit.  The ’98 vintage in particular was drinking exceptionally, and my favorite was the bright, racy 2002, lip-smacking, layered and creamy.

While there are other cavas I enjoy, Raventos, Avinyo, Recaredo (to name a few), Gramona is leading the way in crafting long aged, artisanal sparkling wine, that dare I say, is as good as champagne.  Slip in a bottle of Gramona Gran Reserva Celler Batlle 1998 with some French bubbly and see how it stacks up for yourself.

 

Categories
Drinking Eating Experiences Food The Chef Travel Wine

Europe in the very lovely month of May

May is a great month for travel to Europe.  There is a slipstream just before high season when the weather is peak to enjoy sunshine cooled by soft breezes..

It has been over twenty years since I have visited Italy, mainly because I tend to take annual trips to Spain, dabble in France, and vacation in Mexico or El Caribe.  I was handsomely rewarded this time around.

As with any great culinary city, my attack plan was simple.  Plan meals around the sights.  Research great wine bars (business interest), and long evenings al fresco (a fiori).  Eat local wine, salume and cheese.  Hit the sweets circuit.  Espresso down.

Rome provided an ideal venue for my game plan.  Roma is Eurocosmo, a neologism I like to use referring to a city with style, sophistication and tradition in food and wine, a culture who lives to eat.  Roma is built for long walks peppered by golden cups of espresso, lazy late afternoon lunches climaxing in the joy of artisanal gelato.

My own personal view on sightseeing is simple.  Be around structures and museums accidentally, enter if I must, but plan all the eating and drinking around the environs of said must see attraction.

On my last trip, the Vatican left a lasting impression, so before the weekend crowds made a visit unbearable, the Vatican was the first target.  As it turns out it is difficult to find any good eats around this tourist mecca, but I found great respite at a ham and wine bar called Passagui, where I sampled some great Pata Negra.  The resto features a tiled encased ham slicing room/station, featuring many legs which curiously held on to its own curly tails, and the signature black hooves, of course.  Despite the euro vs. the dollar, wine prices are about a third less than in New York.  For example, Falanghinas were listed between 16 and 22 euros per bottle, and Valtellina Superior from 28 to 35 euros.

Thank goodness for a solitary rec from my good friend Pete, an honorary Roman, at Giarrosto Toscano, where my gal and I lunched correctly. Toscano, a place popular among locals doing nothing special, but offering correct pastas and aged beef.  Cacio y pepe, bucatini alla amatricana followed by a nice t-bone.  All a fiori of course.  Nice waitstaff.  We returned for dinner later on in the trip and were treated as regulars.

A short walk from the Pyramide (truly an uninteresting structure), there is a gold mine of a diner called Volpetti where the business model is split in two.  Alimentari extraordinaire on the corner, adjacent to mom and pop prepared foods with inexpensive wine resto.  Sample it all, from the antipasto to the meatballs to the pizze.  Nourishment for the Roman soul.

Near the Trevi Fountain, a small trattoria named Piccolo Arancino offers classic roman fare.  The menu is vast and comprehensive.  The ravioli arancino is a specialty.  Then head over to the Pantheon to San Crispino for some artisanal gelato, a cut above the rest.

At Campo de Fiori you can get lost in all the noise and hullaballoo created by the raging youthful crowds, but a block therein lies a well established wine bar called L’Angolo Divino.  Skip the food, which is mediocre.  But do sit in the wee hours for a great selection of Ar.Pe.Pe and fabulous boutique wines from great producers.

A walk through the Greenwich Village of Rome, Traversere, is charming and leads to the Jewish quarter, a line up of Roman Jewish food where the stalwart Giggetto stands out from the rest.  Order the artichokes, zucchini flowers, and on to the roasted lamb.  A real treat down the road at one of the entrances to the quarter is a wine bar named Beppe, where the owner makes many of the cheeses.  Choose wine from the shelves and have a 20 euro tray of marvelous cheese.  Order salume if you have the room.  Real mortadella here folks. A nice ’04 Produttori di Barbaresco nebbiolo was drinking well and a steal at 35 euros.

Coming back to Traversere, a fine meal could be had in a romantic setting at Trattoria Teo’s, or a more expensive formal meal at L’Asincotto with the only drawback being indoor seating only.

A trip to the Pantheon can be treacherous for food, but a nice trattoria, Il Bacaro,  on a tiny side street, pretty and draped by flowery trees of held its own with a nice antipasto selection and solid pastas.

A quick jaunt to Napoli, the armpit of Italy, but worth it just for the best pizza in the world at Da Michele for a whopping five euros.  We also spent a few nights in Sorrento and Capri, where the food was nothing to write home about.  The seafood was incredibly overpriced compared to let’s say, Spain.

The highlight of the trip was getting a tip from a nice bartender at Ris Café, where a decent martini can be crafted.  We were directed to a true speakeasy, The Jerry Thomas Speakeasy on a piccolo street called Vicolo Cellini 30, complete with password and no sign.  Enter and find a civilized adult setting that could be in Williamsburg.  No stumping the bartenders here.  Professional and correct.  What an absolute treat to watch Romans discovering cocktails and its ingredients with wonder and enthusiasm.  I dare say a movement is on the way.

Next stop Jerez de la Frontera, Spain, for a look at the state of sherry and perhaps some of the best jamon in the world.