Category: Drinking

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Cooking Drinking

Spanish Neighbors

As a fan of aged Riojas in the old style, I am intrigued by its immediate neighbors, mainly Navarra and Ribera del Duero. In my most recent post I reported on the current crop of Navarra wines which have been improving steadily since the last New York Times Tasting panel. I am especially intrigued by the graciano blends, a grape usually reserved for rounding out tempranillo. Although not as age-worthy as its Rioja counterpart, a great value and increase in overall expert winemaking is evident with sample from such great vintages such as 2000, 2001, and 2004.

Which brings up the more powerful Riberas, wines that have great finesse, structure and aging potential, wines of dark fruit and wily tannins – wines that often rival the best of Rioja. At issue, however, is the readiness of these wines. I am finding that the 1996 vintage is just starting to show a happy face, while subsequent vintages are more closed off. Just taste the 1996 Arzuaga and compare it to later cosechas to see my point. This is true for reserva and gran reserva. In a recent sampling of 2004 crianzas, they appear to be more accessible on the nose, but the palate is still developing. Patience is the key word for Ribera del Duero. A trip to the cellar is your best bet with Arzuaga, Pesquera, and the other top ten producers.

If you need a bottle of Ribera to drink now, opt for the joven (young wine). These wines see very little oak and are quite black juicy fruit right now. Riberal, Monte Negro, and Figueres are fine values that will bring suprising delight. These wines were very forgiving, food ready and priced right. A comparison of Rosso di Montalcino vs. Brunello comes to mind, not for the flavor profile, but for the Rosso’s accessibility. The same can be said for these jovens. For now, Rioja is still the favorite, young or old, but it’s nice to see the other Spanish winemakers step up their game.

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Drinking Experiences The Chef

Kingdom of Navarra

The wines of Navarra have always played second fiddle to its more renowned big brother La Rioja. In truth, tempranillo, the grape that defines Spanish wine should be the torchbearer for what is great and typical to drink from Spain. Winemakers from Navarra have been carving out their own niche for some time now, as evidenced by the sparkling 2001 vintage. The wines showed maturity, structure, and length, as well as spicy flavors and good fruit. On January 22nd , at the W Union Square Hotel, the Kingdom of Navarra presented the wines that are currently being showcased in the U.S. Some of the winemakers even came along to promote their craft.

The tasting was well designed in that there were only thirty tables to choose from. The whites included chardonnay and chard/viura blends, most of which were oaked to some degree. I preferred the pure chardonnays because of their weight and structure. The blends seemed a bit too acidic on the palate. The offering from Inurrieta received my vote for best tasting chardonnay.

The rosados were mostly garnacha, a staple grape in Navarra. These wines on the whole were lovely to drink, juicy and minerally, steely and often complex. The Chivite rosado was full-bodied and dry, the leader among the pack.

There were several red grapes represented, and I felt that the wines had a certain harmonious unity in terms of flavor profile and winemaking. Some blends were very successful, such as graciano/garnacha, or cabernet/garnacha. Senorio de Sarria makes a 100% graciano, as well as mazuelo. These wines were funky, earthy, and had a tart finish. I quite enjoyed the “dirtiness”.

Many of the wines were of the 2004 vintage which seems to be shaping up quite nicely. Some of the ’04 wines need more time in the bottle. I don’t believe it will measure up to 2001, but the quality of winemaking is still improving in Navarra and the rest of Spain.

Since the New York Times panel tasting of March 2007, I am very encouraged by the majority effort from Navarra. At the current price point combined with a small aging potential window, these are wines of value that should grace your local wine or shopping lists more frequently in the near future.

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Drinking Eating Experiences The Chef

On the UWS Foodie Trail

As a New Yorker, born and raised in the Upper West Side, it is natural to take of notice of subtle shifts of culinary development. A raise in the quality of food and service has generally not been well received by West Siders, simply because fickle wallets and a tradition of take-out have usually taken precedence. With a well chronicled fiscal crisis and economic slowdown, I find it curious that several new establishments are seeking to change the dining culture uptown for the long haul.

The formula for a successful restaurant in the Upper West Side has always been tied to its affordability and take-out reliability. Keep it cheap, and make sure you can order it from home. Just look at Pio Pio Salon, a Peruvian chicken shop that is above average at best, but does sterling business because it plays by the rules. Keep it cheap and portable. Saigon Grill sits atop the mountain in this philosophy, followed by Flor de Mayo, Malecon, and the thirty or so odd fusion Asian places that have sprouted over the last three years. Top chefs and restaurateurs get nose bleeds when they think of opening uptown. Just ask Aix, the now defunct, transformed Bloomingdale Road, who may suffer the same fate.

Tom Valenti, on the other hand, has been the beacon and the exception to the rule. And while he has held down the fort, trailing is Danny Meyer, not with three star cuisine, but with a new and improved Shake Shack. Little Mermaid rears its finny tail. Throw in an uptown Fatty Crab and the recently opened West Branch to boot. Kefi has moved to an easy to find location (84th and Columbus). Dovetail and Eighty One havemade waves. And wine bars are sprouting every ten blocks – Vai, Bin 71, Wine and Roses, Buceo 95, Barcibo, and Cava (set to open) just to name a few.

Sports bars may soon be in danger all over Columbus Avenue. Foodies are demanding more. Just under the 72nd street line are Bar Boulud, Telepan, and Picholine – all top dining choices. Despite the economy, all indicators point to a push further uptown. Even in the Columbia U. area, Community Food and Drink is trying to change the expectations for the university palate. Finally there is a place for Belgian ales. Just pop in to B. Cafe which serves Belgian product proper, with some nice frites too.

Perhaps no more important presence is made than that of the Shake Shack. In a neighborhood ravaged by Starbuck’s, Duane Reade/Rite Aid, banks and fast food junk, the old family run joints have become a distant pleasure of the past. But if people can change the way they think about fast food ala Shake Shack, Pinch S’Mac and Dean’s, then we can perhaps rid ourselves of McDonald’s, KFC and bad pizza once and for all.

What’s left in the movement is to bring real coffee here. The East Village demands it with great shops such as Ninth St. Espresso and Café Abraco. The same thing can happen uptown. Jacques Torres is chocolate crafting. Grom is gelato delivering. Our choices for hot chocolate have improved as a result. Some barista needs to step up.

We could use a few more taco trucks, and some competitive Middle Eastern pushcarts too. Maybe a Payard or Bouley Bakery…a foodie can dream, can’t he?

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Drinking Eating Experiences The Chef

Cafe Abraco

What do you get when you cross a full-sized kitchen, an Italian masterpiece called La Marzocco, and barely ten square feet of standing room only space for its customers? Add a triumvirate of owners who know what they’re doing, and you’ll find yourself standing out on the street too. I never could understand all those lines at Café Magnolia for those cupcakes or even waiting twenty minutes for a Shake Shack frozen custard, but at Café Abraco, one cup of espresso will cause you to look around for a witness. Order java from Jamie, who churns up some of the most delicious coffee creations enough to give Joe’s Espresso a run for its money. Add a delicious olive oil cake and creative afternoon inventions such as panini and Spanish influenced fare and you’ve got a spot you wish you had on your block.

This is serious café done San Francisco style, and this will become an East Village hang-out to stay. There are different treats depending on the time of day, which is great for pleasant surprises. I’m always there when Jamie is at the helm, and his hospitality is key.

Viva café! Viva East Village Culinary Revolution!

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Drinking Recipes The Chef

Coqui-to!

As the holidays are upon us, I often feel like having a large glass of egg nog.  In the Caribbean, islands have different variations and recipes for this traditional drink.  In Haiti, we drink what is called cremace.  I have many relatives in Puerto Rico, and this is the recipe we use for coquito.

Coquito Marcelin

Ingredients

2 egg yolks, beaten

1 can evaporated milk

1 can cream of coconut

1 can sweetened condensed milk

1 cup good rum

1/4 tsp ground cloves

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 tsp nutmeg

Directions

Quick Recipe

Blend all ingredients in a blender on high for 5 minutes.  Refrigerate.

Original Recipe

Using a double boiler, combine egg yolks and evaporated milk. Stirring constantly, cook over lightly simmering water until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Transfer mixture to a blender, and add cream of coconut, sweetened condensed milk, rum, water, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, and vanilla. Blend on high for about 30 seconds. Store in refrigerator overnight.  Serve cold.

Happy Holidays!