After a long respite from one of the best food cities of North America, I am heading back to New Orleans for a look-see.   Follow me on twitter for the food and cocktail trail.
Category: Wine
The weather seems to be holding up, although I do expect some type of April snow shower.
Time to drink rose, and Spain puts out some beauties. Whether it be garnacha, tempranillo, or obscure grapes like prieto picudo or bobal, there is a Spanish rosado that will fit your tastes and budget. Many are done in stainless steel vats, meant to be consumed while young and fresh within six months to one year, and some actually mature and get better with time. Take the 1998 Lopez de Heredia gran reserva, ten years later and not even at peak yet. The 2009 vintage of Muga is drinking very well, even more expressive than the 2008. From Toro, I like the clean direct nature of Estancia Piedra Azul. Look to Rioja’s little sister, Navarra for garnacha, perfect for a pink sangria by the way, Senorio and Artazu leading the way there.  My favorite so far is the Ameztoi txakoli rosado, a serious rose with some effervescence, a well structured wine which will provide maximum pleasure. Some of these are being offered at Pata Negra, so come down for a glass!
Not to be outdone by its more famous counterpart, La Rioja, the wine community at Ribera del Duero are putting forth a valiant effort into introducing and establishing their wines as some of the best Spain has to offer. A grand tasting was held on February 23 at the Puck Building in NYC to showcase some of the more recent vintages, and give an opportunity for industry people to glimpse many producers without importers.
The D.O. was founded in 1982, primarily to promote the quality of wine and enforce standards. Wine has been produced in Ribera for 2,000 years, and so this organization is a relatively new one. Tinto Fino, better known as tempranillo, thrives in the Ribera climate, a region with high elevation and a short growing season, hence giving the grape its name (temprano meaning early).
With the risk of describing the primary characteristics of wines from the Ribera del Duero, the tempranillo grapes have flavor profiles along the lines of rich dark berry, black plums, cherry, and licorice. The wines are often powerful and full-bodied, age well and are best paired with food.
On to the tasting, where several winemakers were present, and happy to talk about their wines. Interesting to note, almost every table I visited spouted facts about how much and what type of oak was used. From a technical standpoint I understand this is important information. From a tasting viewpoint I was more interested in the integration of oak and the craftsmanship.
Of the over 75 wineries who were seeking importers, I have tried a handful of these wines in Spain, and simply did not have enough time to try them. The 85 or so other wineries was sufficient work for the time allotted, leaving no effective time for conversing with colleagues or winemakers.
My focus was twofold. First I was trying to get a feel for the 2004 and 2005 crianzas and reservas. Second, I sought insight into the 2006-2008 vintages, and finally, I was looking for a good Joven for Pata Negra.
Generally speaking, the wines of the Ribera del Duero are serious wines. That is to say they possess a lot of depth, structure, fruit, and tannin. Very few are made in an easy quaffing style, and several of the wines require food to be enjoyed completely. One of the winemakers at Finca Torremilanos completely disagreed with me, as evidenced by his displeasure with my sweeping characterization, and as it turned out his wines were among the “lightest†in style of the tasting.
I found that the 2004 and 2005 vintages were ripe and exceptional, but these wines were screaming for food, and can be laid down for an additional five to ten years to soften and be more accessible. Some producers had 2006 crianzas on hand, and those were actually more ready to drink, a good point if purchasing for immediate consumption.
Standouts for the 04 & 05 vintages included Vina Pedrosa, Emilio Moro, Arzuaga, Arrocal, Pesquera (reservas), Pago de los Capellanes, Valduero, Figuero. In many of these wineries, their 2006-2008 offerings were very good and more ready to drink.
Of the reservas and gran reservas tasted, most still needed more time in the bottle, but the Arzuaga, Pesquera, Valduero, Valsotillo, and Condado de Haza were drinking very well.
Vega Sicilia, one of Spain’s great wineries, was present and pouring the 1991 vintage, a stellar bottling.
There were a few roses on hand, and 2009 promises to be exceptional in this department. The roses were steely, dry, round and refreshing. The use of tempranillo added depth and complexity to the style.
I overheard a few conversations about how Ribera del Duero is not well known and does not get as much respect as La Rioja. The wines are not prominent on restaurant wine lists and so forth. I think that some of the winemakers are missing the point with their style of winemaking. Some of these wines are revered by Parker and Penin, for their powerful style and aging potential. Some of the wines I tasted were at 14.5% percent or more (sure the label says “14â€, but come on). I’ve never eaten so much bread during a tasting. There should have been open pig and lamb roasts in every corner of that room to accompany these bold flavors and tannins.
But it would be a mistake not to seek out these wines, especially in the hands of great producers, who have distinctive styles and a good barometer for a complete, well rounded wine as opposed to a (dare I say) New World heavy hitter. The RBD wines should be on more wine lists. Wine directors and sommeliers should decant, and more jovens and joven robles should be poured by the glass at wine bars.
One of the greatest wines I have ever drunk in my life, 1970 Vega Sicilia Unico, hails from the Ribera del Duero, a winemaking region which clearly has the potential to be in the same class as La Rioja, if the winemakers just keep their eye on the prize.
I am a February baby, and trying to figure out how to celebrate the big 40 can be a challenge. I decided on several small celebrations, rather than a blow out gala or trip to a foreign land. First up was a lunch with close foodie friends, gentlemen who I have known for over ten years, eaten delicacies at home, restaurants, and through many travels. We have formed our own homage to a gastronomic club like those in San Sebastian, called the Grand Crew. There are women in this club too, but for this leg of the event, due to the limitations of time and wine quantity, the guest list was four herbs and a bottle.
It is often a task to figure out when to drink expensive wine that you’ve been cellaring, and we often try too hard to wait to open wine, when a simple occasion with friends and loved ones will do .   Not so much for a 40th birthday, the sky is the limit. I learned from my good friend Jay, whom I have shared many a birthday bottle with, a gift from his father, who had enough foresight to buy several bottles of his son’s birth year to present as a gift when he reached the tender age of twenty one, allowing for maximum aging and enjoyment. My father only drinks Dominican rum, and so I have sought out some wines from 1970 myself. Luckily for me, 1970 was good for Bordeaux, Barolo, Barbaresco, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero.
The crown of my collection is a 1970 Vega Sicilia Unico, considered one of the greatest wines ever crafted in Spain and the world, and I planned the whole meal around it. Every year I ask my grandparents and mother to make several delicacies I have enjoyed my whole life, without which there would be much less joy. The menu was simple and complimentary to what I though the Vega Sicilia would taste like. Pork liver pate from Dickson’s Farmstand, lamb kibbe and mechie, Middle Eastern-Haitian staples, celebratory food in the Marcelin household, a real family project and production for preparation and execution.
Kibbe is composed of ground lamb and bulgur wheat, with spices and herbs shaped into torpedoes or patties, and can be eaten raw or deep fried. I cannot live without them. Mechie is stuffed cabbage, grape leaves, and eggplant, filled with a rice and beef mixture, often spiced with scotch bonnet peppers.
Now that the menu was set, other wines had to be considered. El Capitan brought a white, and wanted to bring a Champagne. In my absolute anticipation of the Unico, I could not think clearly, and only asked for he white, a grave error, especially for a Champagne whore such as myself! But we survived, being consoled by a tremendous Chablis from Dauvissat, a 1999 premier cru, “La Forest”, brimming with exuberance, almost too delicious for its own good, not allowing for time to appreciate, bestow compliments and evolve in the glass. The middle wine was a gift from Maria Jose of Lopez de Heredia, who I visited this past summer in La Rioja, and generously sent me home with two ‘64’s, both Bosconia and Tondonia. This would be the wine to lead up to the Unico, as I was careful not to drink them side by side begging for comparison, as both are outstanding wines in their own right.
I played Haitian music throughout the meal, and that accompanied with our friendship and the amazing food, caused dancing in the seat, especially after we sipped the ’64 LDH, a gorgeous, floral, feminine beauty, standing up to the spiciness of the kibbe, and enhancing our appreciation of it. We were drinking the Bosconia, which Maria Jose swears is more masculine in style than the Tondonia, and that the bottling choice was a mistake they never chose to correct. I can’t wait to try the Tondonia to corroborate her story. I know she is the winemaker, but all Bosconias I have tasted in the past seem feminine to me, and all Tondonias, more masculine.
The kibbe was the best I had ever tasted. I went to Dickson’s Farmstand for all the meat, which added a brightness to each bite, the lamb bringing the dish to the next level. The mechie was delicate, steaming and nuanced were the flavors, built from slow simmering.
Then we opened the Vega Sicilia Unico, which was an indescribable wine. It was elusive, powerful yet finessed, not young or old, ageless. I have actually been thinking about how to describe this wine for several days now, and have come no closer to understanding its seduction. It is easily the greatest wine of my memory, a real masterpiece. Its flavor profile is just delicious, and talking about this wine in an academic way is to dishonor the spirit of this wine, which promotes a feeling of being very special just by drinking it.
We had some wine left in the glass for the Vacherin Mont d’Or, easily my favorite cheese in the world, consumed in minutes, raw milk unctuous creaminess sopped up with a filone from Grand Daisy, followed by chocolate covered almonds from Jacques Torres.                                          
The jubilee was at a zenith when I opted for the Cohibas and Havana Club, even Dr. L. and Jay could not refuse, an absolutely perfect pairing, sending us into a dizzying frenzy of euphoria, blunting our palate so as not to drink more vintage wine, thankfully what a defense.
Somehow I made it to Pata Negra later that evening, high on life and happy to see friends and new clients at my place of business. I was surprised to receive another gift from Maria Jose, delivered to my door during the day, all handled secretly by the lovely Chris, the charming mademoiselle who you will find working the room at Pata Negra when I am not around. I remember having a conversation about drinking birth year wines very casually, and she offered to send me a 1970 LDH. I didn’t think on it until the bottle was in my hand, a Tondonia. She is most gracious for the gift, and I felt blessed to have such fine friends and family all who have showered me with gifts throughout my life. I am truly grateful.
At 40 I have learned something important from that Unico, that age is just a number, that we should strive to be like a great wine, elegant, powerful, indescribable, delicious and timeless.
Categories
Beer Please?
Every other week there is a hotly debated discussion about beer vs. wine. The beer advocates feel beer gets an unfair shake in terms of craftsmanship and are further looked down upon by wine drinkers. The wine advocates think it is more difficult to make wine and feel beer consumers are what the commercials portray them to be, uneducated drunkards with zero palate. Perhaps this attitude is not shared by the winemakers or workers in the industry. Peek at the beverage that any one of these folks have in hand during leisure time and you can be all-in that the drink of choice is beer.
As Mr. Asimov pointed out in his blog, The Pour, beer and wine need not be adversaries, merely complimentary choices. The horrific marketing ads for beer made without quality paint beer consumers as dolts, and after any real discussion with an avid beer lover, you will discover the same passion and knowledge as a wine geek who casually spouts out malolactic fermentation and indigenous yeasts. It begs the question, why the divorce? Why not a reconciliation? If one can have several courses during a meal, why not several different beverages? Why all the rules and animosity?
I like to start with Champagne, or beer or cocktail, then move towards wine, including sherry, ultimately returning to beer or champagne at the end.
Last week I had much to celebrate. I received I high rank in Aikido, I was a guest on a cable tv cooking show, and I attended the JETS game. My drink of choice is Champagne, but I opted for beer at the Burger Joint, located in the Parker Meridien Hotel (still my burger of choice in a burger mad city). The Sam Adams Boston Lager was on tap and in pristine form, full of body and frothy, perfect for the occasion, having just finished my Aikido exam. Later in the week I found myself at the underground (literally) pizza shop speakeasy at 6th and Avenue B, although I ordered a bottled beer that was much less satisfying. Finally on Sunday, I celebrated the Yankees victory while watching the JETS, reaching for old standbys Bass Ale and Guinness on tap, which after those two kickoff returns by Ted Ginn Jr.,drowned my sorrows appropriately.
I look at beer as a mini Champagne, a tiny split if you will, and the only decision you have to make is to choose a good one, or at least one to your liking, much like I prefer drinking vintage over non-vintage, except that the cost comparison is recession friendly. Six packs work just as well as a bottle of wine. Two people or four can share. At my favorite Cantonese place, Phoenix Garden, which has a BYOB policy, I often bring a six pack of lager, and then esoteric white wines, just to try different flavor combos and pairings, returning to beer throughout the meal. But there is no need to quarrel over which, I say choose both.
This week I will be heading at Minetta Tavern for a celebratory black belt meal. Will it be beer, Champagne, or cocktail to start? Maybe all three. The beauty is in the choice and my mood, no rules or arguments. It all fits. It’s all good. It’s all celebration.