Category: Experiences

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Drinking Eating Experiences

Eating Seens

How much of a scene does one need when dining out? And how much is it worth to you?

I am very much interested at the restaurant scenes where everything looks beautiful, from the décor to all the decked out people who attend, but the food and the wine don’t quite measure up.

Take Morandi, for example, a new Keith McNally staple in the West Village. The place has been masterfully redigitized to look like old world Italy. Night after night it’s filled with Balthazar and Pastis overflow where everyone is trying to outlook the other. Now there is nothing wrong with this, as beautiful people need somewhere to assemble too, but I can’t help but ask the question, “Is anyone tasting the food?”

The truth is I love the staff and will spend many a break over by the bar talking to Joe and enjoying wine or a cocktail. I invariably get hungry and try to order something different (or safe), and I often receive a bowl or plate of mediocrity. It just doesn’t measure up, and I get angry at myself for trying. One of their best dishes is the tiramisu, and that’s a dessert. Despite some other poor reviews the place remains bulletproof, and the reason is simple. The food becomes palatable amidst all of that moving beauty. It’s like eating in a motion picture art gallery, and that’s why people go there. There is better Italian fare in at least twenty other places in the city, but few can produce that type of atmosphere.

This is expected at places like Sushi Samba, where I believe there is a direct bridge and several tunnels to a place that has no business serving sushi, not with the plethora of authenticity that surrounds that neighborhood (Aki, Tomoe, Blue Ribbon, Yama etc.). But those patrons go to look at mirrors as well. Are they going for sushi or social status?

Another restaurant on seventh avenue that gets closer to serving food and sexiness on the same level is Centro Vinoteca. The former Batali protégé serves tasty nibbles, from perfectly fried pumpkin or eggplant cakes to savory stuffed mushrooms to earthy pate. Some of the entrees fall short of execution, or perhaps deep flavor, but once again this is massaged by all the eye candy at the bar edging you to order another lovely glass of Kerner gruner veltliner. The other night there was a lot of truffle madness for specials, but at $75. a pop I don’t care what type of models they’ve got strolling through there. The only issue here is that foodies have sniffed it out, and it is nearly as difficult to nab a seat at the bar as it is at Morandi’s.

A recently opened townhouse venture named Bobo’s has opened, and when you walk in you’re thrust into a romantic wonderland. Everything sparkles and glistens, and the people are decked out lovely. I’ve tried to have a drink at the bar three times without success, but I suspect, and this is merely a hunch, that the food will not match the décor.I will check to see if this holds true in the future.

A restaurant’s job is partly to evoke a mood by the change in atmosphere supported by the food, wine, and service. This is no small task, and that is why competition is so cut-throat. So the next time you’re elbow to elbow with an unusual amount of gorgeousness, beware of what you order, drink a little more than usual, and don’t believe the hype.

Categories
Drinking Experiences Wine

The Great Match

On Thursday September 20th the Great Match was held at the Metropolitan Pavilion, an annual showcase for the wonderful world of Spanish wines and products. Industry people were let in at one o’clock, and kicked out at five sharp, to make room for the paying public who sampled tapas from some great Spanish restaurants.

These type of events are often marathons, and can be very taxing without discipline. With over 600 wines to choose from and a considerable amount of schmoozing, staying on task is the only way to go, which means spit, and only swallow what’s really good.

I happened to be looking for a good Albarino and Ribera del Duero, partly for the restaurant (Ostia), and partly for a chef friend of mine (Diego) who is getting hitched and seeking advice for the nuptials.

Many of the usual suspects (wine distributors) were present, and an afternoon of swirling glasses was interrupted only by the line for food at the table provided by Solera.

The hidden pearls of these tastings are always what I am after, followed by new vintages of known wines, and revisiting stuff I didn’t like in the past.

Starting with the whites, I gladly tasted several albarinos, two of which stood out from the pack. Both the Turonia and the Albarino de Fefinanes (both 2005) expressed outstanding balance and terroir. For an oaked version from DO Ribeiro, the Coleccion Costeira Treixadura Barrel Fermented 2006 also made a good impression for its style.

The wines from Ribero del Duero were not showing well, indicating that you Riberos usually require decanting or more time in the bottle before consumption. The offerings from Emina did however shine a bright spot. Despite 14.5% alcohol, the 2003 Emina Prestigio exhibited great integrated tannins, fruit and balance.

There were scores of great Navarra wines to taste, from Vina Sardasol reserve 2001 to Chivite Gran Feudo 2001, but the knockout wine of the evening was the Reserva Especial from Senorio de Sarria. The wine was flat out fantastic with a healthy price tag of $50.00 per bottle.

The usual suspects were present, from Montecillo, Torres, Faustino, and Marques de Riscal, to name a few. It was good to sample some standout efforts from Rioja producers like Miguel Merrino, Monte Real, and Vina Albina. With some bottle age, these wines expressed the elegance and beauty of la Rioja.

I found the cavas to be what I expected, yeasty and enjoyable to drink, save for a 2004 reserva from Agusti Torello, a 100% macabeo wine with distinct characteristics and great craftsmanship.

Last but not least, on to Jerez, where sherry reigns supreme. I’ve heard many an Englishman come into my restaurant proclaiming that sherry is the premier wine from Spain. After tasting olorosos, palo cortados, amontillados, and PX bottlings from Moe, Lustau, Sandeman, Tio Pepe, and Domecq, it is difficult to put up an argument.

For now I will enjoy all the diversity that Spain has to offer, old world and new, with its place among the world’s great wines both merited and secure.

Categories
Eating Experiences

Resto and the Rest

Based on hype, I headed over to Resto to check out the burger, advertised as new best burger for 2007. It was a balmy Tuesday, typical New York humidity, Park Avenue South buzzing with diners nonetheless. I too found refuge in Resto’s charms, waiting only fifteen minute after being tipped off by the host where there would be two empty seats at the bar. Long after I finished my meal, people were still waiting for a table, something I’ll just never understand. Excuse my name-dropping, but Jeffrey Steingarten was present, and I just think his work is very funny. Although I didn’t disturb him once, he seemed to enjoy himself, despite the parade of staff stopping intermittently to make sure everything was going along well.

The beer list is top notch, and the bartender was eager to let anyone have a try before committing. If only marriage could be the same way. I opted for wine anyway, and there is nary a poor choice in the bunch. I settle for an inexpensive Gruner Veltliner that did the trick, easy to share and drink with just about anything I ordered.

There was a special homemade pork sausage with delicious mustard, an accoutrement that is often lost upon chefs. The deviled eggs served atop pork “toasts” were also delectable, and these starters served their purpose – my companion Abi from Spain and I just got hungrier – and that is saying much for her because she eats like a bird. Mussels are offered in several preparations. Abi’s came in a witte bier, orange zest, and garlic. A large pot of mussels cooked the way they were meant to be enjoyed, accompanied by fries, cooked expertly, light, airy, crispy, golden and sensational.

My burger arrived with fries too. It was quite good, moist and juicy and beefy, but it started to taste like a great brisket more than a burger. I can definitely put it up there with great burgers of NYC, but it falls short of supplanting my beloved Burger Joint at the Parker Meridian. Anyway here’s a list of my top five:

  1. The Burger Joint at the Parker Meridian
  2. Peter Luger’s
  3. DB Bistro Moderne
  4. Bouley Upstairs
  5. The Shake Shack

I’m sure you have favorites. Let me know…

Categories
Drinking Eating Experiences The Chef

A Tribeca Alternative

Once again, my friend Joe has taken vacation leave, and left me in charge of his humble abode in Tribeca. After a three month stint here, I have grown attached once again, only to return to my dear Harlem flat.

Tribeca, in its current manifestation, is an odd neighborhood to figure out. With its million dollar lofts and baby carriages running amok, Triburbia would be a more apt moniker. There are a number of high filutin’ restaurants, some of which are quite good, but at the price, they’re not exactly a perfect Monday night choice. There’s Nobu, Danube, Bouley, and Chanterelle leading the pack, followed by Tribeca Grill, Harrison and Devin Tavern, Odeon, Arqua, Azafran, Bread Tribeca, Centrico, Mai House, etc. Landmarc stands apart from these in terms of quality/price ratio, and is the only one open late at night for people in the industry, like myself. There are however, a number of good places other than the aforementioned which I have separated into tiers.

Starting at first tier, or moderately expensive, casual and good are Landmarc, Bouley Upstairs, Takahachi, Nobu Nextdoor, and Blau Gans. I could probably add two or three more to the list, but the aforementioned have been more consistent. Landmark’s wine list always offers good value, and the late night snacks such as bone marro with sea salt and grilled bread is a winner. The sushi at Takahachi is very good and underrated. Some nights there is a special, silken tofu that will transform your feelings about it. Bouley Upstairs secretly has some of the best o-toro in town, as well as a great, fun ecclectic menu. Austrian pub is fab at Blau Gans, especially the schnitzels and weiners. Only order warm dishes at Nobu Nextdoor, like the black cod or the rock shrimp. None of these places are cheap, but you will find yourself returning more than once.

The second tier is a wave of places that fit in the middle. They are moderately priced and easy going kind of places. Look to Petite Abeille, Edward’s, the newly opened Max, Salaam Bombay, Viet Cafe, Industria Argentina, Bubby’s, The Little American Place, Kitchenette, etc. These places have specials, especially for lunch. Try the buffet at Salaam Bombay, or the five dollar banh mi at Viet Cafe. Max serves a slew of inexpensive pastas and pannini, and Petite Abeille and Edward’s always offers some value during the weeknights.

The third tier is fast food, and there are many good ones. Bon Bon just opened up for Korean fried chicken, and oh my god is it addictive. Next to Bon Bon is Sylvia’s for classic Cuban fare. Province serves great pork buns. A couple of good Indian spots dot West Broadway near Chambers, such as Pakistan Tea House, as well as fast food sushi venues. Then there’s WichCraft, Panne e Peppe, and Bazzini’s for the sandwich market. The best diner is Square, near the Franklin Street station.

Then there are the bakeries. Ceci Cela serves great omelettes and overall pastries, but Bouley Bakery takes the cake. The croissants alone define its character and commitment. Another lovely bakery is Duane Park, where the cookies and cupcakes are king.

I am sure I have left a couple of place out of my reflections, this being my last week in Tribeca for some time.

Bars exist, and I am partial to the Other Room for beers, and the bar at Landmark. I just can’t figure out the other bars or their vibes. The best wine shop is easily Chambers Street, with a fine selection and excellent staff, frequent tastings and overall standard of excellence.

The flavor of the neighborhood is changing once again, what with the buildings on Greenwich being converted into luxury, market rate housing. Where will the people go? This is a condition of New York City, not just Tribeca.

I had one banging meal just before I go, what with the indoor grill available to me. Quail, baby lamb chops, piquillos stuffed with blood sausage, sweetbreads in panko with alioli, montaditos de boquerones, and hand carved jamon Serrano from the leg, chorizo, a lovely cheese course from Murray’s, and a homemade olive oil loaf courtesy of my friend Yaellie. Wine highlights were a 1995 Miguel Merrino Reserva, and a Bourgogne Aligote from Domaine Roulot. Throw in a Super Tuscan and a Brezeme from Eric Texier. Not bad for city living.

All in all, I will miss Tribeca, but luckily it’s just a train ride away.

Categories
Eating Experiences Food

Ssam Bar Redux

On a recent visit to Degustation, Chef Wesley apprised me of Ssam Bar’s late nite menu  and nibbles.  From Wednesday thru Saturday, Chef David Chang can be spotted creating delectable delights for the industry weary, and lord knows we always need a great late night spot to hang out and nosh in.  You won’t find ramen here, but replace that with warm veal head terrine and spicy honeycombe tripe.   Sounds a bit off the wall?  Then try the fresh Spanish Mackerel Tataki, grilled squid salad or house staple, steamed buns.  There is an homage to artisanal country hams.  I particularly enjoyed Benton’s smoky Mountain from Tennessee.  There are salads with crispy pork jowl and fried cauliflower in fish sauce, so you can see just how out there Chef Chang is willing to go.

The best late night snack is still available (oysters), and there is a fab cheese selection that will make you forget altogether about the bizarre mochi ice cream sampler.  The menu changes quite often, and chefs and their staffs can be spotted near every night.  All this makes for happy times and a tip of the hat to the man with the vision.