Category: Eating

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Eating The Chef

Shochu & Ramen on a November Day

The cold weather has me ramen and shochu (barley sweet potato or rice distillation – vodka-like) hunting, and the East Village is a breeding ground for this type of experience. I met my friends Larry and Steve over at Uminoie on third street, and was pleasantly taken care of. They offered flights, and even sold my favorite brand, Tori Kai. I usually add ume (plum) to my drink which intensifies as you reach the bottom. Lemon will also soften the sting out of some of the more austere styles available. I didn’t get to sample much food, but the kitchen smelled great.

Earlier in the day I hit a new ramen shop on 14th street and first avenue called Kambi. The place was neatly designed and the price was right, but some richness was lacking in the pork bone broth, although all the elements of the soup came together nicely. The gyoza was not pan fried correctly and overall I give the experience a six out of ten. With so much competition for ramen in the East Village (Momofuku, Setagaya, Ippudo, Rai Rai Ken, Men Kui Tei, etc.), they are going to have to step up their game.

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Drinking Eating Experiences The Chef

Cafe Abraco

What do you get when you cross a full-sized kitchen, an Italian masterpiece called La Marzocco, and barely ten square feet of standing room only space for its customers? Add a triumvirate of owners who know what they’re doing, and you’ll find yourself standing out on the street too. I never could understand all those lines at Café Magnolia for those cupcakes or even waiting twenty minutes for a Shake Shack frozen custard, but at Café Abraco, one cup of espresso will cause you to look around for a witness. Order java from Jamie, who churns up some of the most delicious coffee creations enough to give Joe’s Espresso a run for its money. Add a delicious olive oil cake and creative afternoon inventions such as panini and Spanish influenced fare and you’ve got a spot you wish you had on your block.

This is serious café done San Francisco style, and this will become an East Village hang-out to stay. There are different treats depending on the time of day, which is great for pleasant surprises. I’m always there when Jamie is at the helm, and his hospitality is key.

Viva café! Viva East Village Culinary Revolution!

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Drinking Eating Experiences

Eating Seens

How much of a scene does one need when dining out? And how much is it worth to you?

I am very much interested at the restaurant scenes where everything looks beautiful, from the décor to all the decked out people who attend, but the food and the wine don’t quite measure up.

Take Morandi, for example, a new Keith McNally staple in the West Village. The place has been masterfully redigitized to look like old world Italy. Night after night it’s filled with Balthazar and Pastis overflow where everyone is trying to outlook the other. Now there is nothing wrong with this, as beautiful people need somewhere to assemble too, but I can’t help but ask the question, “Is anyone tasting the food?”

The truth is I love the staff and will spend many a break over by the bar talking to Joe and enjoying wine or a cocktail. I invariably get hungry and try to order something different (or safe), and I often receive a bowl or plate of mediocrity. It just doesn’t measure up, and I get angry at myself for trying. One of their best dishes is the tiramisu, and that’s a dessert. Despite some other poor reviews the place remains bulletproof, and the reason is simple. The food becomes palatable amidst all of that moving beauty. It’s like eating in a motion picture art gallery, and that’s why people go there. There is better Italian fare in at least twenty other places in the city, but few can produce that type of atmosphere.

This is expected at places like Sushi Samba, where I believe there is a direct bridge and several tunnels to a place that has no business serving sushi, not with the plethora of authenticity that surrounds that neighborhood (Aki, Tomoe, Blue Ribbon, Yama etc.). But those patrons go to look at mirrors as well. Are they going for sushi or social status?

Another restaurant on seventh avenue that gets closer to serving food and sexiness on the same level is Centro Vinoteca. The former Batali protégé serves tasty nibbles, from perfectly fried pumpkin or eggplant cakes to savory stuffed mushrooms to earthy pate. Some of the entrees fall short of execution, or perhaps deep flavor, but once again this is massaged by all the eye candy at the bar edging you to order another lovely glass of Kerner gruner veltliner. The other night there was a lot of truffle madness for specials, but at $75. a pop I don’t care what type of models they’ve got strolling through there. The only issue here is that foodies have sniffed it out, and it is nearly as difficult to nab a seat at the bar as it is at Morandi’s.

A recently opened townhouse venture named Bobo’s has opened, and when you walk in you’re thrust into a romantic wonderland. Everything sparkles and glistens, and the people are decked out lovely. I’ve tried to have a drink at the bar three times without success, but I suspect, and this is merely a hunch, that the food will not match the décor.I will check to see if this holds true in the future.

A restaurant’s job is partly to evoke a mood by the change in atmosphere supported by the food, wine, and service. This is no small task, and that is why competition is so cut-throat. So the next time you’re elbow to elbow with an unusual amount of gorgeousness, beware of what you order, drink a little more than usual, and don’t believe the hype.

Categories
Drinking Eating Food Wine

Spanish Presents

As there have been several celebrations for Spanish cuisine over the past month, I have used thise them as an opportunity to spread the love when it comes down to getting the perfect gift for friends and family. Spanish ingredients such as pimenton de la vera (paprika) and saffron are welcome additions to any home cook’s pantry. A good bottle of Spanish wine will compliment any great meal.

As far as old wines go, a bottle of Spanish wine from an older vintage (say 1970 – 1990) will cost you significantly less now to buy than say an Italian, French or Californian counterpart. Just compare the price of an old Barolo, Bordeaux or Burgundy to an old Rioja. You will be surprised at the discount. Recently, in celebration of my friend Jay’s birthday, I opened a wine from Bierzo from 1970. The bottle, from Palacios de Arganza, was spectacular, youthful, fresh, and full of yummy harmony. It had an intense aroma, elegant and complex. As part two of my present, I brought a haul in from Murray’s cheese shop, a selection of Spanish winners. For dinner Dr. L. made two types of lasagna, both of which we just could not stop eating. There was no room left for the cheese, but this is the report I received later:

herb:

Last night I demolished that cabrales. Tonight, I tore up that Arteserena di Serena. Both nights, I used the tortas to accompany.

The Cabrales was PERfectly ripe. Inhaled it. And that Arteserena di Serena is some crazy good *&%$#@. I enjoyed/appreciated it on the first taste, but, as you work through it, it’s extraordinary stuff. The texture is awesome and the thistle pungent flavor with the sheep’s milk is way stronger than one might imagine (in a good way). Maybe it’s for the advanced palate, but dang me that action is delicious.

Thanks again for a smashing birthday gift, senor.

If you wish to receive similar praise when purchasing a present for a foodie, just follow suit. And just wait until the jamon iberico passes thru customs!
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Eating

On the go…

While the answer to running errands on an empty stomach with time constraints is fast food, more often than not the options just aren’t that appealing. Besides the obvious slice of pizza or hot dog, I usually look for dumplings, which are fast, filling, and inexpensive.

While waiting for an appointment in the East Village I stumbled upon Plump Dumpling, a standard fast food Chinese joint with extra special pride in their dumplings.

There are several types to choose from, steamed meat to seafood to vegetable, and they can be ordered on their own or added to soup, an excellent vehicle to showcase the dumplings’ versatility. The texture is not doughy or too thin. It is just right, with great tasting fillings. A choice of four different types of noodles can be added to the soup creating layered dimension and satisfying slurpiness to the experience.

It is very hard to spend over five dollars here, and though that doesn’t compare to the two dollar slice or wiener, you get what you pay for with a satisfying bowl that will keep you running your errands for the rest of the afternoon.

Plump Dumpling 299 East 11th St (bet. 1st & 2nd Aves.)