Author: Chef Mateo

Just a man in pursuit of all things delicious. Eat and Drink life!

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Eating The Chef

A gelato a day…

While spring still lingers a bit with late showers and evening breezes, I took the rare opportunity to see what all the hype about gelato on the upper West side was all about. Enough has been written about Grom, the Italian gelato chain that has finally made it stateside, that I feared I would be disappointed. It is easy to remember while in Rome, ordering that delicious gelato, leaving the counter, and trying to eat that cone as quickly as possible just so I could go back to buy a second one.

A good international product should transport you back in time to the place where you first enjoyed the delicacy, and Grom delivers.

Grom proclaims poetically about its quality and its scruples; only use the best raw artisanal materials to produce a genuine superior product. This means fresh fruit in season, no color or additives, and even the use of San Bernardo mineral water. Eggs come from organic chickens and coffee beans from Central America. The result is astounding.

Of the flavors I have tried, I found the Gianduja the most interesting. It had a chocolaty texture, but was refined and robust. The pistachio was superb, and the stracciatella outstanding. Because of Grom’s technique, you basically cannot choose a bad flavor. My least favorite flavors were the tiramisu and zabaione, but I suspect that was just merely a matter of taste.

It was not hot enough to try a granita, but out of the sorbets, the lemon was a knockout. The lemon is from the Amalfi coast, and I was blown away by the intensity of lemon. In East Harlem, there was an ice shop called Rex’s who would only open if it was 85 degrees or hotter. His lemon sorbet was tops. I think that Grom’s actually ekes out the number one spot here.

Grom offers containers to go, and you’ll find the prices extremely high, but you get what you pay for. If the line is short, and you’ve got ten dollars jingling around in your pocket, indulge yourself, you’re worth it.

Categories
Drinking Eating The Chef

Oyster Hunt

Now that spring has finally arrived (just check your allergies for proof), I have been spending all of my free time in the pursuit of my favorite pairing – oysters and champagne. This regal duo will transport you to the heavens. You will feel invigorated and sexually charged like no viagra could possibly accomplish. In Haiti, the locals polish off a good stew of conch called lambi, and this is the nationally renowned remedy for any man’s woes. In Santo Domingo, they men turn to mamajuana, a potent concoction also responsible for improved awareness. I have always wondered if these products have the same effect on women. At any rate, all of that sucking and slurping and bubbly has to lead somewhere…

In the city there are good options for pristine oysters, as one bad oyster can put you off for life. Start at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal for variety. This old-fashioned institution serves a variety of briny and sweet oysters form east to west coasts. The wine list is moderately priced, and you can find great values like a Roero Arneis from Peimonte which I quaffed last Monday. Chenin blancs and sauvignon blancs from Washington to Long Island round out the American list.

Pearl Oyster Bar is one of my favorite places, but I often cheat here and order a lobster roll too. Late night, you can head over to Blue Ribbon. Although it’s pricier ($3.75 ea), they are open after 2 am and it’s certainly worth it. And you need not go to an oyster specialist. Many top restaurants offer oysters. BLT Fish, Craftsteak, BLT Steak, Balthazar, The Neptune Room etc. Oysters are everywhere. Recently, I was dazzled by the oysters at Giorgione, an Italian spot on Spring Street(review forthcoming).

Yesterday, I was treated to a bottle of Duval Leroy vintage 1996 “La Femme,” which was light-bodied and ethereal, fragrantly delicious and elegantly bubbly. Not bad with some sottocenere (truffle cheese).

Remember. Life’s too short to drink bad wine and eat bad food. Eat life! Go find some oysters and champagne. Ole!

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Drinking The Chef Wine

Spring Tastings

Springtime motivates me to re-dedicate myself to tasting more wines, as I look to exchange the heavier winter wines for lighter ones. So while you might pick up a bottle of rose prematurely, I still cling to some robust reds and whites that pack a wallop. Recently I attended two tastings which reinvigorated my spirit, if not my thirst.

At the Ibanez Pleven Offerings (IPO) gathering at Per Se, wine professionals spent the day slurping and spitting wines from what turned out to be a solid portfolio of French, Portuguese, California, and Spanish wines. I carry a few of these wines at Ostia, and was curious about wines outside the Spanish D.O.
There was a lovely chardonnay from Elke Vineyard (2004) which exhibited great minerality and good acidity. I really enjoyed the second label from Screaming Eagle, Jonata, especially the 2004 “la alma” from the Sanat Ynez alley. The style was more Bordeaux than California rocket juice, and look forward to seeing how these bottles will age in the future.

The Mas D’en Compte Planots, a Prioriato fashioned from 100 year old vines evoked spicy tickles and Languedoc sensibility. Gramona made its presence felt with better than avergae cavas from Penedes, but it was the artfully crafted godellos from Bodegas Val de Sil out of Valdeorras that had me humming. These wines glistened with golden hues and Burgundian elegance and floral beauty. Roger Sabon out of CDP was being poured as well, a treat for anyone.

A proper follow up a few days later was at the Polaner Selections tasting at the Puck building, a great venue for these type of events. Louis/Dressner Selections represented as well, pouring fab wines from Eric Texier, Catheirine and Claude Mafrechal to Michel Tete and Catherine & Pierre Breton. Top that off with Clos Roche Blanche and Domaine du Closel, and suddenly spitting is no longer an option.

I ran into a lovely Champagne by the name of Agrapart et Fils who sported a lovely Blanc de Blancs and Brut Rose with minerally, silky, elegant texture.

One corner of the room had a line up similar to the N.Y. Yankees. What would you say these heavy hitters: Emilio Pepe (’77-’04), Mascarello (’98-’04), Roagna (’96-‘0), Giacomo Conterno Barolos and Lopez de Heredia (’99-’73)? The 1976 Bosconia was unbelievable.

Back to work, tasting flights of Ricardo Palacions, Palacios Remondo, Rafael Palacios, Bodegas Olivares, Bodegas Artadi, Artazu, El Seque, Vinedos AAlto, Capcanes, and Quinta Sardonia, just to name a few, as finally I was able to say I clocked on for the event. All in all swift work in under two hours, as I barley had room for Tomasso Bussola’s amarones.

As I’ve told many a friend or customer, life’s too short to drink bad wine. So get out to a wine shop somewhere and start your spring tasting. After all, with the weather these days, summer is just around the corner.

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Drinking Eating Experiences The Chef

A Tribeca Alternative

Once again, my friend Joe has taken vacation leave, and left me in charge of his humble abode in Tribeca. After a three month stint here, I have grown attached once again, only to return to my dear Harlem flat.

Tribeca, in its current manifestation, is an odd neighborhood to figure out. With its million dollar lofts and baby carriages running amok, Triburbia would be a more apt moniker. There are a number of high filutin’ restaurants, some of which are quite good, but at the price, they’re not exactly a perfect Monday night choice. There’s Nobu, Danube, Bouley, and Chanterelle leading the pack, followed by Tribeca Grill, Harrison and Devin Tavern, Odeon, Arqua, Azafran, Bread Tribeca, Centrico, Mai House, etc. Landmarc stands apart from these in terms of quality/price ratio, and is the only one open late at night for people in the industry, like myself. There are however, a number of good places other than the aforementioned which I have separated into tiers.

Starting at first tier, or moderately expensive, casual and good are Landmarc, Bouley Upstairs, Takahachi, Nobu Nextdoor, and Blau Gans. I could probably add two or three more to the list, but the aforementioned have been more consistent. Landmark’s wine list always offers good value, and the late night snacks such as bone marro with sea salt and grilled bread is a winner. The sushi at Takahachi is very good and underrated. Some nights there is a special, silken tofu that will transform your feelings about it. Bouley Upstairs secretly has some of the best o-toro in town, as well as a great, fun ecclectic menu. Austrian pub is fab at Blau Gans, especially the schnitzels and weiners. Only order warm dishes at Nobu Nextdoor, like the black cod or the rock shrimp. None of these places are cheap, but you will find yourself returning more than once.

The second tier is a wave of places that fit in the middle. They are moderately priced and easy going kind of places. Look to Petite Abeille, Edward’s, the newly opened Max, Salaam Bombay, Viet Cafe, Industria Argentina, Bubby’s, The Little American Place, Kitchenette, etc. These places have specials, especially for lunch. Try the buffet at Salaam Bombay, or the five dollar banh mi at Viet Cafe. Max serves a slew of inexpensive pastas and pannini, and Petite Abeille and Edward’s always offers some value during the weeknights.

The third tier is fast food, and there are many good ones. Bon Bon just opened up for Korean fried chicken, and oh my god is it addictive. Next to Bon Bon is Sylvia’s for classic Cuban fare. Province serves great pork buns. A couple of good Indian spots dot West Broadway near Chambers, such as Pakistan Tea House, as well as fast food sushi venues. Then there’s WichCraft, Panne e Peppe, and Bazzini’s for the sandwich market. The best diner is Square, near the Franklin Street station.

Then there are the bakeries. Ceci Cela serves great omelettes and overall pastries, but Bouley Bakery takes the cake. The croissants alone define its character and commitment. Another lovely bakery is Duane Park, where the cookies and cupcakes are king.

I am sure I have left a couple of place out of my reflections, this being my last week in Tribeca for some time.

Bars exist, and I am partial to the Other Room for beers, and the bar at Landmark. I just can’t figure out the other bars or their vibes. The best wine shop is easily Chambers Street, with a fine selection and excellent staff, frequent tastings and overall standard of excellence.

The flavor of the neighborhood is changing once again, what with the buildings on Greenwich being converted into luxury, market rate housing. Where will the people go? This is a condition of New York City, not just Tribeca.

I had one banging meal just before I go, what with the indoor grill available to me. Quail, baby lamb chops, piquillos stuffed with blood sausage, sweetbreads in panko with alioli, montaditos de boquerones, and hand carved jamon Serrano from the leg, chorizo, a lovely cheese course from Murray’s, and a homemade olive oil loaf courtesy of my friend Yaellie. Wine highlights were a 1995 Miguel Merrino Reserva, and a Bourgogne Aligote from Domaine Roulot. Throw in a Super Tuscan and a Brezeme from Eric Texier. Not bad for city living.

All in all, I will miss Tribeca, but luckily it’s just a train ride away.

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Drinking Eating Food The Chef

Post V-Day Treats

I tend never to celebrate Valentine’s Day on the actual day, what with impossible reservations, overpriced flowers, and the simple fact that it usually falls on a week day.
Better to plan the day before or after, or some other specified, uneventful day such as a Monday, where you can basically walk into any open joint without all the pomp and circumstance associated with just about any other night. This is a good stategy for chocolate buying too, as chocolate runs out quite often even at the exorbitant prices.

Last Monday my Thanksgiving evening centered around Spring Street, far west though, past Hudson St. A stop at the Ear bar for some drinks, est. 1817, with loads of charm and fun, and then dinner at Giorgione, an Italian restaurant that serves a healthy dose of comfort, style, and great food at great prices. The staff was excellent, and the food was spot-on. We were able to sample wines by the quartino, keeping our food cost down, and slurped some fab oysters, yummy pizza, and nice cheesecake. There was an adjacent bar playing old school hip hop and Cana across the street, so that the jitterbug could be exercised if need be.

Going out is such a luxury these days, that I cherish the experience more than in the past, and am more easily disappointed than not. One trip to Georgine’s, however, has restored my faith substantially.

As for chocolates, I have three recommendations. Just buy truffles at La Maison du Chocolate on the upper east side. Six or seven will do. They are divine. For out of sight hot chocolate, try Marie Belle’s in Soho. I know this is blasphemy to some fans, but I feel her hot choco is the best in the city, even better than (dare I say it) the inimitable City Bakery. My friend Jacques Torres also puts outs a fine box of chocolates. Any choice will make your love feel special.

If it’s too late to plan this Valentine’s in this way, be not afeared, there is always room for one day of special love next year.