Author: Chef Mateo

Just a man in pursuit of all things delicious. Eat and Drink life!

Categories
Drinking Experiences Wine

The Great Match

On Thursday September 20th the Great Match was held at the Metropolitan Pavilion, an annual showcase for the wonderful world of Spanish wines and products. Industry people were let in at one o’clock, and kicked out at five sharp, to make room for the paying public who sampled tapas from some great Spanish restaurants.

These type of events are often marathons, and can be very taxing without discipline. With over 600 wines to choose from and a considerable amount of schmoozing, staying on task is the only way to go, which means spit, and only swallow what’s really good.

I happened to be looking for a good Albarino and Ribera del Duero, partly for the restaurant (Ostia), and partly for a chef friend of mine (Diego) who is getting hitched and seeking advice for the nuptials.

Many of the usual suspects (wine distributors) were present, and an afternoon of swirling glasses was interrupted only by the line for food at the table provided by Solera.

The hidden pearls of these tastings are always what I am after, followed by new vintages of known wines, and revisiting stuff I didn’t like in the past.

Starting with the whites, I gladly tasted several albarinos, two of which stood out from the pack. Both the Turonia and the Albarino de Fefinanes (both 2005) expressed outstanding balance and terroir. For an oaked version from DO Ribeiro, the Coleccion Costeira Treixadura Barrel Fermented 2006 also made a good impression for its style.

The wines from Ribero del Duero were not showing well, indicating that you Riberos usually require decanting or more time in the bottle before consumption. The offerings from Emina did however shine a bright spot. Despite 14.5% alcohol, the 2003 Emina Prestigio exhibited great integrated tannins, fruit and balance.

There were scores of great Navarra wines to taste, from Vina Sardasol reserve 2001 to Chivite Gran Feudo 2001, but the knockout wine of the evening was the Reserva Especial from Senorio de Sarria. The wine was flat out fantastic with a healthy price tag of $50.00 per bottle.

The usual suspects were present, from Montecillo, Torres, Faustino, and Marques de Riscal, to name a few. It was good to sample some standout efforts from Rioja producers like Miguel Merrino, Monte Real, and Vina Albina. With some bottle age, these wines expressed the elegance and beauty of la Rioja.

I found the cavas to be what I expected, yeasty and enjoyable to drink, save for a 2004 reserva from Agusti Torello, a 100% macabeo wine with distinct characteristics and great craftsmanship.

Last but not least, on to Jerez, where sherry reigns supreme. I’ve heard many an Englishman come into my restaurant proclaiming that sherry is the premier wine from Spain. After tasting olorosos, palo cortados, amontillados, and PX bottlings from Moe, Lustau, Sandeman, Tio Pepe, and Domecq, it is difficult to put up an argument.

For now I will enjoy all the diversity that Spain has to offer, old world and new, with its place among the world’s great wines both merited and secure.

Categories
Eating

On the go…

While the answer to running errands on an empty stomach with time constraints is fast food, more often than not the options just aren’t that appealing. Besides the obvious slice of pizza or hot dog, I usually look for dumplings, which are fast, filling, and inexpensive.

While waiting for an appointment in the East Village I stumbled upon Plump Dumpling, a standard fast food Chinese joint with extra special pride in their dumplings.

There are several types to choose from, steamed meat to seafood to vegetable, and they can be ordered on their own or added to soup, an excellent vehicle to showcase the dumplings’ versatility. The texture is not doughy or too thin. It is just right, with great tasting fillings. A choice of four different types of noodles can be added to the soup creating layered dimension and satisfying slurpiness to the experience.

It is very hard to spend over five dollars here, and though that doesn’t compare to the two dollar slice or wiener, you get what you pay for with a satisfying bowl that will keep you running your errands for the rest of the afternoon.

Plump Dumpling 299 East 11th St (bet. 1st & 2nd Aves.)

Categories
Eating Experiences

Resto and the Rest

Based on hype, I headed over to Resto to check out the burger, advertised as new best burger for 2007. It was a balmy Tuesday, typical New York humidity, Park Avenue South buzzing with diners nonetheless. I too found refuge in Resto’s charms, waiting only fifteen minute after being tipped off by the host where there would be two empty seats at the bar. Long after I finished my meal, people were still waiting for a table, something I’ll just never understand. Excuse my name-dropping, but Jeffrey Steingarten was present, and I just think his work is very funny. Although I didn’t disturb him once, he seemed to enjoy himself, despite the parade of staff stopping intermittently to make sure everything was going along well.

The beer list is top notch, and the bartender was eager to let anyone have a try before committing. If only marriage could be the same way. I opted for wine anyway, and there is nary a poor choice in the bunch. I settle for an inexpensive Gruner Veltliner that did the trick, easy to share and drink with just about anything I ordered.

There was a special homemade pork sausage with delicious mustard, an accoutrement that is often lost upon chefs. The deviled eggs served atop pork “toasts” were also delectable, and these starters served their purpose – my companion Abi from Spain and I just got hungrier – and that is saying much for her because she eats like a bird. Mussels are offered in several preparations. Abi’s came in a witte bier, orange zest, and garlic. A large pot of mussels cooked the way they were meant to be enjoyed, accompanied by fries, cooked expertly, light, airy, crispy, golden and sensational.

My burger arrived with fries too. It was quite good, moist and juicy and beefy, but it started to taste like a great brisket more than a burger. I can definitely put it up there with great burgers of NYC, but it falls short of supplanting my beloved Burger Joint at the Parker Meridian. Anyway here’s a list of my top five:

  1. The Burger Joint at the Parker Meridian
  2. Peter Luger’s
  3. DB Bistro Moderne
  4. Bouley Upstairs
  5. The Shake Shack

I’m sure you have favorites. Let me know…

Categories
The Chef

Restaurant Week in NYC

As restaurant week is once again upon us, the number of participating restaurants has continued to escalate each and every year. This is not necessarily a good thing. If the prix-fixe lunch special were an accurate indicator of what a particular chef is all about, then I would make reservations for two weeks straight. More often than not, the limited menu is uninspired. A meaningless salad here, some chicken redux there, berries on top of coulis and hope there was some wine ordered. I understand that this prix-fixe is not going to pay for the daily bread, but isn’t the object to introduce the diner to a chef’s distinct approach so that the customer will return to spend real money at a later date?

I am pleased that my first stop during this promotion was in midtown, where home-cooked elegant Greek food is the star at Anthos. Having been to Onera, the now renamed Kefi, in the past I had already been familiar with Chef Psilakas’ modus operandi.

If only one third of the restaurants could be as proficient at doing such a superlative job of enticing the patron to want more, then restaurant week would be a raving success.

Incidentally, Anthos already promotes a $28.00 lunch daily which resembles that being offered during this promotion. What other high end Greek restaurants set out to do Mr. Psilakis does a bit better, and that is to bring a grandmother’s food with a chef’s touch to the table. Flavors are bright, products are fresh, and appetites grow.

This becomes evident in no time flat. The few choices offered on the prix-fixe menu are enough to fight over. Do not miss out on the grilled octopus, easily the best in the city. The meal could have stopped there, but a lovely keftede of crab and fish updates the Maryland crabcake in fine fashion. And the sheep milk ricotta dumplings, divine.

The main course of branzino was cooked expertly with Mediterranean accents of cherry tomatoes and olives. A risotto with a zing of lemon was a bright bowl of harmonious rice. Desserts were refreshing in the guise of fresh yogurt with fruit, fennel and olive mint gelee, but the rose and white chocolate crema was a dessert dream, accented with passion fruit puree, almond crumble and rose dust.

I tried a couple of glass of white wine with the repast. The Retsina was herbaceous and delicious. Other whites were palatable, and a sure accompaniment to the Greek flavors. I’ll try the reds when I return for the lamb, sometime soon.

Reservations are easier for a late lunch, and as per my suggestion, plan for more than one.

Categories
Eating Food The Chef Travel

When in Philly…

Many U.S. cities take culinary pride in a specific dish, Chicago the deep dish pizza, New Orleans the po’ boy, New York the ideal slice and so on. In Philly for the weekend to see my friend GG compete in his 52nd triathlon, the debate over where the best Philly cheesesteak was a hot topic. Located across the street from one another, Pat’s and Geno’s do battle every day, 24 hours a day, for the title of best cheesesteak. The rivalry is fierce, and residents take sides as they do in New York over the best pizza pie, Grimaldi’s or Lombardi’s.

While many other establishments make their own versions of cheesesteaks and hoagies, the mere mention of eating a cheesesteak any where else is considered sheer blasphemy. After a late nite house party, I headed down with a new friend, Julian, to a raucous stomping ground of hungry patrons. It was almost four am, yet there was a formidable line at Pat’s. Looking over at Geno’s, there was much ado about nothing. “That’s because Pat’s is the best, and Pat’s was here first,” a native chimed in.

Geno’s looked like it belonged on Coney Island with the bright lights and big glitz of Vegas. Pat’s was more subdued, sporting an aluminum diner façade and steely cool vibe. The excitement could not be contained. The line was electric, tongues were salivating. “You have to know how to order,” my line mate declared, her enthusiasm unabashed. Cynthia was her name, a pretty Italian woman who had just had a night on the town with her friend Anna. “You have to say wiz with of wiz without,” Cynthia instructed. The “wiz” being cheese wiz, of course, and the “with” signifying onions. I had my moment, ordered and received my hero of gold.

There was a scramble for a table, but my new friends saved us seats. There really was no speaking from that point on, just incredulous looks of glee and satisfaction. Cynthia and I basically inhaled our sandwiches. I almost went for number two, if not for the line. We chatted about travel and told stories, and enjoyed the starry night. All walks of life were in queue, all races and classes represented, all united by the hunger of Philly’s best. The city of brotherly love was manifest, all over a cheesesteak.

I could not imagine Geno’s being better, but I decided to give it a try the next day. Without going into too much detail, in fact I can’t really put my finger on it, the slight edge goes to Pat’s, maybe because it was my first love, or perhaps because as Cynthia opined, “The bread is just much fresher.” I found the bread to be of similar quality. The differences are in the cut and flavor the meats. At Geno’s the meat is sliced thin. At Pat’s the meat is served in chunks. At Geno’s I found the sauce to be a little watery. At Pat’s everything was just right. You can’t argue taste. Those who love Geno’s are just as correct as those who love Pat’s. For me it’s Pat’s and that’s all she wrote.

Back in New York, I am savoring a cheesesteak, and the joints that sell it here don’t really cut it. I’ll try to make my own, but until the next time, I’ll be dreaming of Pat’s.