Category: The Chef

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Drinking Eating Experiences Food The Chef Travel Wine

To Go Cup

On a brisk March Saturday morning I touched down in NOLA, a break from some long hours and nights at Pata Negra, a much needed short respite of food, wine, and song.

New Orleans is my go to destination for therapy, and I try to go at least once a year.  Part of the fun is researching where to eat and drink and what band to see.  Eater NOLA is a good source for new openings, and my native friend Brett fills in the real gems.  Despite my best planning, there is never quite enough time to do everything, and it is hard not to rely on old standbys like Parkway Tavern.

This trip was full of new discoveries, as New Orleans is not just the French Quarter.  It is a series of neighborhoods strung together by subtleties, according to topography and class, all tied to some force that is most certainly NOLA.

Touched down in Louis Armstrong Airport by 9 am and headed straight to Café Beignet for a fix.  Lunched at the Green Goddess and had an unusual Bloody Mary with kimchi.  The Vietnamese po’boy of shrimp and pork belly hit the spot, as well as the eggs.  Checked out a few cocktail spots before check-in at the Dauphine Hotel.  Sobou (trendy), St. Lawrence (divey), and blanking on others.

After a siesta, drinks at French 75 bar at Arnaud’s (always classy and great) with oysters and gougeres, and off to dinner at Boucherie, way out by cab in Jefferson Parish, resto set up in a quaint house with a porch. A Proper Pimm’s Cupp while waiting, and then some solid, bright cooking accompanied by a reasonably priced ’97 Stefano Barolo.  Highlight was definitely lamb ribs and lamb falafel.  Hospitality extraordinaire.  Off to Frenchman Street to the Spotted Cat.  Jazz Vipers were rocking it.  Frenchman Street was kickin’.

Sunday brunch by Magazine Street at La Fin du Monde, more bloody marys (a little thin, but good) and shrimp and grits (very good).  Caught the end of the Bulls game at The Bulldog (Mimi is a big fan) and then headed over to Luke’s for shrimp and oysters happy hour.  Siesta, and off to ROOT, a new resto with people who know what they are doing, from the front door to the table.  Best charcuterie I have had in ages, from face bacon to beef tongue to longanisa sausage on down, accompanied by pickled kumquats and meyer lemon compote, then followed by delicious rendition of aloo gobi with no sauce, but all the spice.  Duck heart salad, deviled eggs and shrimp, cornmeal crusted oysters  – I wish I had two stomachs. Washed down with a rose bottle of Beck NV.  Took two to go cups (just because you can), and then it was back to Frenchman Street to hear a new band, Big Easy Brawlers.  Lead was doing a great Busta Rhymes interpretation, lots of guests stopped in to play.  Abita all night.

Monday morning meant the Bywater, a new nabe for us, and tough to get to.  Lots of low houses with wild colors of purple and yellow.  You get the feeling real people live there and you are not quite sure how it’s gonna be when night falls.

The destination was The Joint, home to heavenly barbecue and pies and such.  What a dream brisket, pork rib, pulled pork combo. People’s BBQ joint for all sorts of people.

In an attempt to walk off the carnage, made several attempts to find art galleries, but all seemed closed or unavailable, so back to Bacchanal for a great wine experience.  Shop as in a regular store, order some cheese, and then sit outside the backyard and soak in some sun.  No mark up for the wine (unheard of in NY), and a riesling and red burg later, we moved on upstairs for cocktails.  Our bartender named a drink after me.  I forget what’s in it, but I saw her scribble the recipe in her notebook.  Forgive me, because five cocktails later it was tough to remember anything really.  Walked over to Maurepas for a bite, bold flavors and nice drinks, especially the shrimp hotpot, then double dipped over at Booty’s, street food from around the world done up, but the doomsday daiquiri finally put us out of our misery.

Tuesday lunch at Cochon, and we over-ordered (of course).  After all it was to be our last taste of NOLA.  Falling off bone pork ribs, roasted oysters in my favorite spicy sauce, oozing mac and cheese, fried alligator tots, rabbit livers with red pepper jelly, and some fine gumbo, washed down by nice half bottle of gruner and a pinot noir from New Zealand, with room for dessert, my fave, a pineapple upside down cake and chocolate pie.  Spent the rest of the time at Best Records, just grooving to bands new and old, stocking up on vinyl and t-shirts.  Alas there was a plane delay, and had I known, I would have spent my last moments at Parkway Tavern, but it was not meant to be.  I held on to my to go cup from ROOT.  Part cause I wish NYC had this open policy, and part because I wanna take NOLA in that cup back home with me.  Looking at that cup sure makes me smile.

 

 

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Cooking Drinking Eating Experiences Food The Chef Wine

EV Shuffle – HAPPY 5TH

Recently, Pata Negra had a five year anniversary.  It coincides closely with my own.  I thought about a celebratory party, but was so busy with business and life, I was just too tired to even plan it.  With some time to reflect on the birthday, I have come to realize a few things.

First, I am fortunate to have stayed in business for five years.  This is a statement of fact for several reasons.  New York City is ripe with people who work hard and open businesses every day.  In the restaurant industry, there are talented/celebrity chefs, savvy business people, and corporations with deep pockets who know how to play the game and survive in any economic climate.

Pata Negra opened in February 2008, and let’s just say that it was rough going for about three years.  As I look around me in the East Village, so many restaurants have come and gone, even long established ones with healthy reputations.  Pata Negra has survived real estate tax increases (+25% of the base rent), worker’s compensation fines (idiotic inspector/audit), unwarranted DOH fines, and stiff competition (Bar Veloce, Xunta now Nai,and Terroir to start).  When all the buzz is about David Chang or Motorino pizza or the populist Sarita’s Mac-n-Cheese, Pata Negra has survived despite these admittedly better business models for the demographic.

I am no celebrity chef, have no corporate backing, and certainly do not play/pay into the advertising game that exists (Yelp could blow up for all I care).  Frank Bruni has dined at Terroir and gave it a one star rating when he was chief critic for the New York Times.  The other night I saw him in the Duck’s Eatery (Leon’s replacement), two doors down from me.

I receive invitations to advertise weekly, from every deal site from GroupOn to Single Platform to you name it.  Every one of these firms claim they can get me more exposure on NY Magazine or Urbanspoon or whatever. And I am not even going to get into it about YELP.

My business is simple, Spanish Jamon, cheese, and wine, augmented by a few select tapas.  It is a European business model.  There is no paella (btw, there is no authentic paella in all of NY).  No croquetas or patatas bravas, in fact nothing fried (choice & kitchen limitation).  No take-out or delivery.  The point is to come in and experience Pata Negra, to be transported somewhere in Spain, with friendly, attentive service, great jamon y queso, and a nice glass of wine/sherry that I spend a lot of time and research choosing.

Pata Negra is not built for every one, every mood, or every occasion.  It is a civilized place for civilized people.  It functions pretty much the way I had envisioned it many, many years ago when I visited a bar in Barcelona just like it.

My staff and I are eager to please every one who steps through the door, and for 99% of those customers, we strive to make their experience memorable.  The other 1% may be rewarded with a sharp tongue from its owner, if they dare to post lies or refuse to follow house policies.  In these cases the customers are not always right.

I am still thinking of throwing a bash, with some artisanal beers and a pata negra jamon, but I would hate to leave any one of those who have supported me for so long out.  If you are reading this post, please forward me your e-mail address.

Pata Negra has made it through five topsy turvy years and to this I say, “Survival is the new success.”  The truth is that I wouldn’t have made it without the continuing patronage of many lovely, civilized people, friends and family who continue to visit and support Pata Negra, restoring faith in this project whose conception dates back to 1990, my first visit to Spain.  Of course, a huge thank you to my staff, some who have been with me through the whole ride, past and present, who allow me my jaunts to Europe, my siestas and wild moodswings, and my mom who minds the shop when I am ill.  Without them, I would be insane.

THANK YOU FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART.

The following is a rambling of the landscape change within the last five years, just within a block or two of Pata Negra,  to illustrate how hard it is to stay open in an ever changing landscape and economy.

There has been a lot of movement on First Avenue in the East Village lately. Since I rented the space on 12th street just off of First Avenue, storefronts have been transforming before you can decide to pay a visit.  On the corner of 14th street, there was a bagel shop, and they shuttered for a long time until Hot & Crusty moved in.  Next door, Tepito, a Mexican cantina opened.  Tepito shut its doors last Sunday.  Vinny’s pizzeria has been around for ten years, but recently a dollar pizza shop and new next door 2 Bros Pizza shop are putting the squeeze on Vinny, prompting him to counter with a dollar slice special of his own.  Michael Bao ran out of town after his Bao BBQ never caught on.  I still remember my first and last visit.  He gave me a free bottle of Red Boat fish sauce.  Too bad.  Subway moved in and has stuck around.  On the corner of 11th, the deli has changed hands twice, and Starbucks is officially planted on 11th street.  Two Indian restos and a Filipino joint were run off the block on 13th st. so that Lebanese Balade, Papa John’s and Tallgrass organic burger joint could open.  Significantly, the Red Head moved in to the former Detours space and is still thriving.  Jeepney has just moved in, adding to Maharlinka further down First Ave.  Kumo sushi has replaced a short lived barbecue spot as well catering to NYU sensibilities and budget.  Around the east side of 13th street, Ichibantei has changed hands and now is offering reggae music, frosty mugged Sapporo and great kara age, out went the octopus balls and strange marble floor.  On 12th street, Sara’s Mac n Cheese took the space to my left for a bustling take out business, a busted massage parlor for take out, and Motorino moved into Una Pizza Napoletana.  Thai terminal has changed hands twice as well, and Ducks Eatery is in the defunct Leon space, and seems to be here to stay.  The corner deli is being transformed into a restaurant now, hopefully a good addition to the block.  Of course Hearth and Terroir are still there, doing quite well (I imagine).  Up the street from me Angelika Kitchen and John’s are holding court, although I recently saw a sign stating that John’s is serving vegan and gluten free food, also posting a picture of Guy Fieri in an effort to keep up with the times.  Not a good sign if you ask me.  Shima rounds out the block and the tavern opposite corner.  Bar Veloce consumed Bar Carerra and is now open almost all day.  Milk bar has moved across the street to make room for Booker and Dax, a trendy nitrogen bar.  Further down first avenue, Polonia closed, Lasso took over a failed project by Veloce people called Solex, Ugly Kitchen saddled up next door, 1st avenue Pierogi has redone itself, and three sandwich shops opened, Little Piggy, Joedough, and Whitmans (burgers technically).   I prefer Porchetta. Yogurt shops have closed four times, as no one seems to understand that yogurt just doesn’t sell in the winter. There are three hookah bars, and two middle eastern halal spots, supported by the Muslim community associated with the Mosque and cab drivers.  The one Dominican spot on 12th still shines, as well as the last remnants of Italian joints hold on, Veneiro;s, Lanza’s, etc. The tapas bar on 11th , Xunta,  has become Nai, and Iggy replaced the beloved pizzeria Rosa’s.  Momofuku is there, lines and all. I can’t quite recall what The Bean replaced, but that is probably a good thing, Tarelucci y Vino is now surrounded by coffe competition.  Café Abraco is my choice, after a stop at Xian’s famous foods or South Brooklyn pizza (my go to lunch spots).   Coyote Ugly and Cheap Shots are still serving NYU drunks until the wee hours, better bars like Lunasa and the Irish pubs off St. Mark’s thankfully still around.  The only wine shop on First, Tinto Fino, sells a great list of Spanish jewels.

There are other shops on First Ave., thrift, technical, fast food and otherwise.  Check them out for yourself.  Obviously I will not mention those chain corporation that have come to replace defunct storefronts, the ATM’s and chain pharmacies that are so prevalent because only they can afford the rising rents and real estate taxes, the reason why neighborhoods are fast becoming non-descript and mall-like.

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The Chef

Hurricane Sandy: The Insurance Aftermath

Pata Negra opens at five pm every day.  Logistically, all deliveries to the restaurant occur between one and four pm.  I have spent years trying to narrow the delivery time window to two hours, but invariably, no one can dictate the schedule of the truck driver, no matter what it says on the preferred delivery times notes, or trying to play phone tag by cell phone to vector within a half hour radius.  But my attempt at controlling delivery window yields the same results as waiting at home for the cable or phone company to arrive to your apartment within a four hour window.  Futility and frustration is the likely outcome. So I try to arrange all deliveries for the week for one solid afternoon, and pick up odds and ends as needed throughout the week.

I recount this to complain, I guess, to illustrate that restaurant ownership is not all glamour and glitz.  I certainly don’t expect any sympathy, as every job has parts that are tedious and time consuming.  This is certainly one my least favorite chores my number one bugaboo.

What really gets my pig (not my goat as I am in the jamon biz), is when I receive certified mail slips.  It requires a planned, separate trip to the post office, the charming municipality complete with the dreaded lines, and all the bells and whistles it takes to pick up a letter with that green card affixed to it.

Now if I were due to receive something yummy, or good news, I’d be at the post office every day.  But it always brings bad news.  The IRS stating that back taxes are due, or late fees and interest charges.  The landlord sending a five day rent demand letter because the rent is one day late in being received or processed.  Worker’s Compensation Board demanding yet another audit, or processing some fictitious worker’s comp. claim.  That green card is a harbinger of doom, bad news, and most definitely some bill to pay.  The anxiety leading up to opening those letters, the relief when the bill is not too high, all of this is part of restaurant ownership.  The special trip in the afternoon to the post office,  a painful sojourn with questions like “why am I doing this?” and “here we go again.”

My most recent retrieval is a letter I have been expecting from the RCA insurance group stating that my claim for any damages or business interruption stemming for Hurricane Sandy is denied.  They were sweet enough to send me two letters simultaneously, saving me an extra trip.  As if to make sure I understood the first letter’s message, and identical duplicate was sent along to fortify the news.

The following is an excerpt of their “conclusions”.

“Our investigation, conducted by A.C, of Vericlaim, determined although you have sustained damages, unfortunately, your policy does not provide coverage for this loss.

B. Exclusions

  1. We will not pay for loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by any of the following…

e.  Utility Services

The failure of power, communication, water or other utility service supplied to the described premises, however caused, if the failure:

1)   Originates away from the described premises; or

2)   Originates at the described premises, but only if such failure involves equipment used to supply the utility service to the described premises from a source away from the described premises.

Failure of any utility service includes lack of sufficient capacity and reduction in supply  Loss or damage caused by a surge of power is also excluded, if the surge would not have occurred but for an event causing a failure of power.

IN OTHER WORDS, IT IS CON EDISON’S FAULT.  WE ARE PASSING THE BUCK. NEXT QUESTION.

In addition to your claim for physical damages we regret to inform you that there is no coverage for your loss of business income as well.  Your business income coverage is contingent upon you having sustained direct physical loss or damage due to a Covered Cause of Loss.

There is an additional section on Coverage for Business Income which I will spare you.

IN OTHER WORDS, BECAUSE THE LOSS OF BUSINESS INCOME STEMS FROM SECTION B, YOU ARE *&&^%)$# OUT OF LUCK, BUDDY.

Oh and by the way, if you wish to appeal or bring legal action, better make sure you are all paid up and have been in good standing for the last couple of years.

I have been in good standing for the last five years.  I have never filed a claim, even when hooligans broke my front window, or when the basement got broken into and a thief made off with several cases of wine, or the time a thief broke into the backyard, used a ladder to climb through the back window, broke it, and took money from the register, also rendering the register inoperable in the process.  In all cases, the damages were under $500.00 and I did not want my insurance premiums to go up, so I did not file a claim.

There is a multitude of businesses who have lost everything, have been trying to rebuild, and are awaiting insurance checks.  My business suffered no structural damages, just a loss of product and business interruption.  Compared to the businesses that were decimated, I have nothing to complain about.  I get that.  But what is the purpose of having insurance if after any occurrence when you have a legitimate claim, the language of the contract prevents you from actually collecting?

How many other businesses are getting the shaft when they really need to be compensated?  I have insurance so that someone does not trip and fall, or chip a tooth on a wine glass, security against accidents.  I get that.  But if I have a business interruption clause and I am paying for that too, why structure a contract so the fine print gets them off?  Greed and false claims is probably the answer.  The insurance companies cannot sustain paying all of those claims, and the cost of paying out false claims have to be offset by denying legitimate ones.

I am still waiting for leadership from our elected officials.  How about a real estate tax break?  Or subsidies for those who cannot get their claims fulfilled?  Oh, and I need a zero interest FEMA loan like I need another real estate tax increase.  Perhaps the government will bail out the banks and the large corporations again instead of helping the homeowners and small businesses, because I am sure Duane Reade and 7-11 will find a way to lobby for and get tax breaks.

I sincerely pray for no accidents in the future, and hope that those affected by Sandy have better contracts and luck than I do.  They really need all the help they can get.  For me, life goes on, and I chalk this experience up to what I like to call “the cost of doing business.”

Once again, my prayers to all of those still waiting for their homes to be restored, and those business trying to get back on their feet.

 

 

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Drinking Eating Experiences Food The Chef Wine

SHOP EV 2013

Many people in New York are still on the long road to recovery in the wake of Hurricane Sandy.  Homes have yet to be rebuilt, and restaurants, once bustling, remain shuttered.  While critics and other food and wine sites are compiling their best of 2012 reviews, I would like to take this time to continue advocating for support for businesses that lost a lot and need all the help they can get to get back on their feet.

While there are obvious areas that need continuing support (Red Hook, Avenue C, etc.), I am making a case for the small sliver of a predominantly small business neighborhood, the East Village.  Many East Village businesses suffered damages and lost revenue, and are a long way from returning to normalcy, especially with cold and lonely January on the horizon.

There has been no tax relief, no insurance payouts, and FEMA has only offered loans.  A small business needs a loan like a real estate tax increase.

Here is a list of places, old and new, in random order, that I frequent and recommend.

Kasadela

Zum Schneider

Upstate

Tinto Fino

Bob White’s Counter

Northern Spy

Amor y Amargo

Duck’s Eatery

Jules Bistro

Calliope

The Mermaid Inn

Café Abraco

Barnyard

The Beagle

Black Iron Burger Shop

Bluebird Coffee

Boka

The Brindle Room

Café Cortadito

Angel’s Share

The New Bohemian

Japan Premium Beef

Icihbantei

Kanoyama

Rai Rai Ken

Kyo Ya

First Avenue Pierogi

Minca

Perbacco

Porchetta

Porsena

Zabb Elee

South Brooklyn Pizza

Ukrainian EV Restaurant

Xi’an’s Famous Foods

 

I haven’t listed the shops which I frequent, but there are many boutiques where great bargains lay waiting for the patient.

Happy and Healthy 2013!

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Experiences The Chef

Fading Jazz in Harlem

Via Twitter, I was forwarded an article from Black Enterprise announcing that the Lenox Lounge will be closing by New Year.  The owner cites an increase in rent by more than double as a primary reason for shuttering.

This is disturbing news, but not all that surprising.  The gentrification of Harlem has been going on for almost twenty years now, with a real surge in the change of the demographics during the last five years.

After 2000, the last time I estimate a family of four could buy property for a reasonable mortgage, the housing market in NYC inflated.  Buyers had to stretch elsewhere to find value and affordability.  First Washington Heights, then Inwood, Williamsburg and Astoria, East Harlem and West Harlem.  I missed out on buying a classic six on 175th street and Fort Washington Avenue in 2000.  The price was $220,000.   A couple bought a two bedroom for $130,000.00 in the same building and flipped the apartment three years later for four times the purchase price. That classic six today is going for $1.1 million.

In Harlem, east and west, brownstone and townhouse shells were going for $300,000. – $400,000.,  leading to a parade of downtown buyers who were willing to sacrifice neighborhood for more space and less cost.  The city initiative to build affordable housing for qualified applicants also contributed to gentrification.  I lived on 117th street and FDB for two years, and watched how businesses sprouted up to meet the interests of the changing population.  I worked on 120th street and first avenue for seven years and witnessed a number of city subsidized coops built for those downtowners who were looking for value in a competitive market.

And so, Starbucks moves in.  That’s how it starts.  Then Duane Reade, Rite Aid, bank ATMS, Old Navy, and H & M.  Familiar stores for the new consumers.   Stores that can’t make the rent get pushed out.   Landlords seize the opportunity to charge higher rents. The city collects more tax and real estate tax revenues.

There are positive effects too.  From 113th street to 120th street and FDB restaurants have opened and flourished forming a Harlem restaurant row.  There are more jobs openings, and more housing to be built.  The projects still remain and are being squeezed out, maybe for the better.

But what is happening to the mom and pop stores, so vital to the neighborhood’s character?  Who are they being replaced by?  It is one thing to “clean up” the neighborhood, but at what cost?

So many stores I used to patronize are now closed, from bakery, to Jamaican pastry shop, to thrift shop.  Just like Shakespeare & Co. on the Upper West Side when they got kicked to the curb by Barnes & Nobles.  And now Amazon will eventually do the same.  Or when Rosita on 106th Street and Broadway got replaced by KFC.

Tenants live on, holding on to their value apartments hoping for a real neighborhood to emerge.  But what is really happening is a slow mallification, where every neighborhood looks the same as is defined by the type of residents and people in it.  I sometimes walk down Columbus Avenue and can’t tell whether I am in Cleveland, Minnesota or Florida.  Only Central park reminds me that I am in New York City.

And so, a new kind of place opens up in Harlem, the Red Rooster.  A European/Black celebrity chef creating a place and a cuisine that crosses borders and boundaries, an egalitarian foodie destination.  Seems to be working out well for all.  Softens the blow for mom and pop closings. But the homogenized atmosphere has no soul, the essence of any place in Harlem. I have a friend named Georgia who opened up a café but ultimately could not compete and had to close.  Why?  Maybe she was a poor business person.  Maybe she wasn’t supported by the new demographic, and the old demographic didn’t understand her either.  Surely rent and real estate taxes had something to do with it.  And what of Nectar and Harlem Vintage, products of mismanagement? Perhaps.  They can be replaced by bigger corporation brands that have deep pockets.  No loss here.  But the slope continues, and stalwarts like the Lenox Lounge become the next target.  The effect that this closing will have on the neighborhood cannot be measured in dollars and cents.  It affects the psychology of a culture, its heritage, roots and pride.  It removes and sense of history and place, replacing those vital elements of a neighborhood without which there will be a lack of identity.  This has been happening all over the city, with Harlem being the last of the important NYC communities with a discernible face and historical value.

The solution is not so simple.  Under the current system, capitalism reigns supreme.  If you can’t pay the rent, get out.  If you can’t pay the city taxes, real estate taxes, fines, costs for doing business, get out.  If you got hurt by hurricane Sandy and can’t pay your bills, oh well, get out.  If you can’t afford to live in this city according to market rent, oh well, while the city needs you to work here, it doesn’t give you privilege to also live here.  Get out.

The City could do plenty to alleviate some of these problems.  First, the arcane real estate tax code needs to be completely overhauled.  As a small business owner, I am paying 30% above my base rent to the city per annum because of “real estate tax increases.”  Landlords word leases to pass these costs onto commercial renters.  For Duane Reade, this is no problem.  For mom and pop, this could mean the difference between opening or closing.

Certainly some type of tax relief in the wake of businesses affected by Sandy is an order, and would help in the long run for the financial stability of many small businesses.  City built buildings should rent to small businesses to promote community and entrepreneurship.  The City builds these affordable housing, so they should control the rents.

I recently read an article regarding how Iceland attacked its fiscal crisis.  Rather than bailing out the banks, they bailed out the people.  A novel idea, but a rationale that people with their mortgages and small business owners who live and work and provide work  in this city need help and solutions, not more capitalistic, Darwinian attitudes and practices.  Beware, fore in another ten years, there will be no Harlem, just like Hell’s Kitchen became Clinton.  New York City will look and feel like any other U.S. metropolis, and that would be a legacy our mayor and city government will have to take responsibility for.