Category: Eating

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Eating Experiences

Resto and the Rest

Based on hype, I headed over to Resto to check out the burger, advertised as new best burger for 2007. It was a balmy Tuesday, typical New York humidity, Park Avenue South buzzing with diners nonetheless. I too found refuge in Resto’s charms, waiting only fifteen minute after being tipped off by the host where there would be two empty seats at the bar. Long after I finished my meal, people were still waiting for a table, something I’ll just never understand. Excuse my name-dropping, but Jeffrey Steingarten was present, and I just think his work is very funny. Although I didn’t disturb him once, he seemed to enjoy himself, despite the parade of staff stopping intermittently to make sure everything was going along well.

The beer list is top notch, and the bartender was eager to let anyone have a try before committing. If only marriage could be the same way. I opted for wine anyway, and there is nary a poor choice in the bunch. I settle for an inexpensive Gruner Veltliner that did the trick, easy to share and drink with just about anything I ordered.

There was a special homemade pork sausage with delicious mustard, an accoutrement that is often lost upon chefs. The deviled eggs served atop pork “toasts” were also delectable, and these starters served their purpose – my companion Abi from Spain and I just got hungrier – and that is saying much for her because she eats like a bird. Mussels are offered in several preparations. Abi’s came in a witte bier, orange zest, and garlic. A large pot of mussels cooked the way they were meant to be enjoyed, accompanied by fries, cooked expertly, light, airy, crispy, golden and sensational.

My burger arrived with fries too. It was quite good, moist and juicy and beefy, but it started to taste like a great brisket more than a burger. I can definitely put it up there with great burgers of NYC, but it falls short of supplanting my beloved Burger Joint at the Parker Meridian. Anyway here’s a list of my top five:

  1. The Burger Joint at the Parker Meridian
  2. Peter Luger’s
  3. DB Bistro Moderne
  4. Bouley Upstairs
  5. The Shake Shack

I’m sure you have favorites. Let me know…

Categories
Eating Food The Chef Travel

When in Philly…

Many U.S. cities take culinary pride in a specific dish, Chicago the deep dish pizza, New Orleans the po’ boy, New York the ideal slice and so on. In Philly for the weekend to see my friend GG compete in his 52nd triathlon, the debate over where the best Philly cheesesteak was a hot topic. Located across the street from one another, Pat’s and Geno’s do battle every day, 24 hours a day, for the title of best cheesesteak. The rivalry is fierce, and residents take sides as they do in New York over the best pizza pie, Grimaldi’s or Lombardi’s.

While many other establishments make their own versions of cheesesteaks and hoagies, the mere mention of eating a cheesesteak any where else is considered sheer blasphemy. After a late nite house party, I headed down with a new friend, Julian, to a raucous stomping ground of hungry patrons. It was almost four am, yet there was a formidable line at Pat’s. Looking over at Geno’s, there was much ado about nothing. “That’s because Pat’s is the best, and Pat’s was here first,” a native chimed in.

Geno’s looked like it belonged on Coney Island with the bright lights and big glitz of Vegas. Pat’s was more subdued, sporting an aluminum diner façade and steely cool vibe. The excitement could not be contained. The line was electric, tongues were salivating. “You have to know how to order,” my line mate declared, her enthusiasm unabashed. Cynthia was her name, a pretty Italian woman who had just had a night on the town with her friend Anna. “You have to say wiz with of wiz without,” Cynthia instructed. The “wiz” being cheese wiz, of course, and the “with” signifying onions. I had my moment, ordered and received my hero of gold.

There was a scramble for a table, but my new friends saved us seats. There really was no speaking from that point on, just incredulous looks of glee and satisfaction. Cynthia and I basically inhaled our sandwiches. I almost went for number two, if not for the line. We chatted about travel and told stories, and enjoyed the starry night. All walks of life were in queue, all races and classes represented, all united by the hunger of Philly’s best. The city of brotherly love was manifest, all over a cheesesteak.

I could not imagine Geno’s being better, but I decided to give it a try the next day. Without going into too much detail, in fact I can’t really put my finger on it, the slight edge goes to Pat’s, maybe because it was my first love, or perhaps because as Cynthia opined, “The bread is just much fresher.” I found the bread to be of similar quality. The differences are in the cut and flavor the meats. At Geno’s the meat is sliced thin. At Pat’s the meat is served in chunks. At Geno’s I found the sauce to be a little watery. At Pat’s everything was just right. You can’t argue taste. Those who love Geno’s are just as correct as those who love Pat’s. For me it’s Pat’s and that’s all she wrote.

Back in New York, I am savoring a cheesesteak, and the joints that sell it here don’t really cut it. I’ll try to make my own, but until the next time, I’ll be dreaming of Pat’s.

Categories
Eating The Chef

A gelato a day…

While spring still lingers a bit with late showers and evening breezes, I took the rare opportunity to see what all the hype about gelato on the upper West side was all about. Enough has been written about Grom, the Italian gelato chain that has finally made it stateside, that I feared I would be disappointed. It is easy to remember while in Rome, ordering that delicious gelato, leaving the counter, and trying to eat that cone as quickly as possible just so I could go back to buy a second one.

A good international product should transport you back in time to the place where you first enjoyed the delicacy, and Grom delivers.

Grom proclaims poetically about its quality and its scruples; only use the best raw artisanal materials to produce a genuine superior product. This means fresh fruit in season, no color or additives, and even the use of San Bernardo mineral water. Eggs come from organic chickens and coffee beans from Central America. The result is astounding.

Of the flavors I have tried, I found the Gianduja the most interesting. It had a chocolaty texture, but was refined and robust. The pistachio was superb, and the stracciatella outstanding. Because of Grom’s technique, you basically cannot choose a bad flavor. My least favorite flavors were the tiramisu and zabaione, but I suspect that was just merely a matter of taste.

It was not hot enough to try a granita, but out of the sorbets, the lemon was a knockout. The lemon is from the Amalfi coast, and I was blown away by the intensity of lemon. In East Harlem, there was an ice shop called Rex’s who would only open if it was 85 degrees or hotter. His lemon sorbet was tops. I think that Grom’s actually ekes out the number one spot here.

Grom offers containers to go, and you’ll find the prices extremely high, but you get what you pay for. If the line is short, and you’ve got ten dollars jingling around in your pocket, indulge yourself, you’re worth it.

Categories
Drinking Eating The Chef

Oyster Hunt

Now that spring has finally arrived (just check your allergies for proof), I have been spending all of my free time in the pursuit of my favorite pairing – oysters and champagne. This regal duo will transport you to the heavens. You will feel invigorated and sexually charged like no viagra could possibly accomplish. In Haiti, the locals polish off a good stew of conch called lambi, and this is the nationally renowned remedy for any man’s woes. In Santo Domingo, they men turn to mamajuana, a potent concoction also responsible for improved awareness. I have always wondered if these products have the same effect on women. At any rate, all of that sucking and slurping and bubbly has to lead somewhere…

In the city there are good options for pristine oysters, as one bad oyster can put you off for life. Start at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal for variety. This old-fashioned institution serves a variety of briny and sweet oysters form east to west coasts. The wine list is moderately priced, and you can find great values like a Roero Arneis from Peimonte which I quaffed last Monday. Chenin blancs and sauvignon blancs from Washington to Long Island round out the American list.

Pearl Oyster Bar is one of my favorite places, but I often cheat here and order a lobster roll too. Late night, you can head over to Blue Ribbon. Although it’s pricier ($3.75 ea), they are open after 2 am and it’s certainly worth it. And you need not go to an oyster specialist. Many top restaurants offer oysters. BLT Fish, Craftsteak, BLT Steak, Balthazar, The Neptune Room etc. Oysters are everywhere. Recently, I was dazzled by the oysters at Giorgione, an Italian spot on Spring Street(review forthcoming).

Yesterday, I was treated to a bottle of Duval Leroy vintage 1996 “La Femme,” which was light-bodied and ethereal, fragrantly delicious and elegantly bubbly. Not bad with some sottocenere (truffle cheese).

Remember. Life’s too short to drink bad wine and eat bad food. Eat life! Go find some oysters and champagne. Ole!

Categories
Drinking Eating Experiences The Chef

A Tribeca Alternative

Once again, my friend Joe has taken vacation leave, and left me in charge of his humble abode in Tribeca. After a three month stint here, I have grown attached once again, only to return to my dear Harlem flat.

Tribeca, in its current manifestation, is an odd neighborhood to figure out. With its million dollar lofts and baby carriages running amok, Triburbia would be a more apt moniker. There are a number of high filutin’ restaurants, some of which are quite good, but at the price, they’re not exactly a perfect Monday night choice. There’s Nobu, Danube, Bouley, and Chanterelle leading the pack, followed by Tribeca Grill, Harrison and Devin Tavern, Odeon, Arqua, Azafran, Bread Tribeca, Centrico, Mai House, etc. Landmarc stands apart from these in terms of quality/price ratio, and is the only one open late at night for people in the industry, like myself. There are however, a number of good places other than the aforementioned which I have separated into tiers.

Starting at first tier, or moderately expensive, casual and good are Landmarc, Bouley Upstairs, Takahachi, Nobu Nextdoor, and Blau Gans. I could probably add two or three more to the list, but the aforementioned have been more consistent. Landmark’s wine list always offers good value, and the late night snacks such as bone marro with sea salt and grilled bread is a winner. The sushi at Takahachi is very good and underrated. Some nights there is a special, silken tofu that will transform your feelings about it. Bouley Upstairs secretly has some of the best o-toro in town, as well as a great, fun ecclectic menu. Austrian pub is fab at Blau Gans, especially the schnitzels and weiners. Only order warm dishes at Nobu Nextdoor, like the black cod or the rock shrimp. None of these places are cheap, but you will find yourself returning more than once.

The second tier is a wave of places that fit in the middle. They are moderately priced and easy going kind of places. Look to Petite Abeille, Edward’s, the newly opened Max, Salaam Bombay, Viet Cafe, Industria Argentina, Bubby’s, The Little American Place, Kitchenette, etc. These places have specials, especially for lunch. Try the buffet at Salaam Bombay, or the five dollar banh mi at Viet Cafe. Max serves a slew of inexpensive pastas and pannini, and Petite Abeille and Edward’s always offers some value during the weeknights.

The third tier is fast food, and there are many good ones. Bon Bon just opened up for Korean fried chicken, and oh my god is it addictive. Next to Bon Bon is Sylvia’s for classic Cuban fare. Province serves great pork buns. A couple of good Indian spots dot West Broadway near Chambers, such as Pakistan Tea House, as well as fast food sushi venues. Then there’s WichCraft, Panne e Peppe, and Bazzini’s for the sandwich market. The best diner is Square, near the Franklin Street station.

Then there are the bakeries. Ceci Cela serves great omelettes and overall pastries, but Bouley Bakery takes the cake. The croissants alone define its character and commitment. Another lovely bakery is Duane Park, where the cookies and cupcakes are king.

I am sure I have left a couple of place out of my reflections, this being my last week in Tribeca for some time.

Bars exist, and I am partial to the Other Room for beers, and the bar at Landmark. I just can’t figure out the other bars or their vibes. The best wine shop is easily Chambers Street, with a fine selection and excellent staff, frequent tastings and overall standard of excellence.

The flavor of the neighborhood is changing once again, what with the buildings on Greenwich being converted into luxury, market rate housing. Where will the people go? This is a condition of New York City, not just Tribeca.

I had one banging meal just before I go, what with the indoor grill available to me. Quail, baby lamb chops, piquillos stuffed with blood sausage, sweetbreads in panko with alioli, montaditos de boquerones, and hand carved jamon Serrano from the leg, chorizo, a lovely cheese course from Murray’s, and a homemade olive oil loaf courtesy of my friend Yaellie. Wine highlights were a 1995 Miguel Merrino Reserva, and a Bourgogne Aligote from Domaine Roulot. Throw in a Super Tuscan and a Brezeme from Eric Texier. Not bad for city living.

All in all, I will miss Tribeca, but luckily it’s just a train ride away.