Category: Drinking

Categories
Drinking Eating Experiences

Eating Seens

How much of a scene does one need when dining out? And how much is it worth to you?

I am very much interested at the restaurant scenes where everything looks beautiful, from the décor to all the decked out people who attend, but the food and the wine don’t quite measure up.

Take Morandi, for example, a new Keith McNally staple in the West Village. The place has been masterfully redigitized to look like old world Italy. Night after night it’s filled with Balthazar and Pastis overflow where everyone is trying to outlook the other. Now there is nothing wrong with this, as beautiful people need somewhere to assemble too, but I can’t help but ask the question, “Is anyone tasting the food?”

The truth is I love the staff and will spend many a break over by the bar talking to Joe and enjoying wine or a cocktail. I invariably get hungry and try to order something different (or safe), and I often receive a bowl or plate of mediocrity. It just doesn’t measure up, and I get angry at myself for trying. One of their best dishes is the tiramisu, and that’s a dessert. Despite some other poor reviews the place remains bulletproof, and the reason is simple. The food becomes palatable amidst all of that moving beauty. It’s like eating in a motion picture art gallery, and that’s why people go there. There is better Italian fare in at least twenty other places in the city, but few can produce that type of atmosphere.

This is expected at places like Sushi Samba, where I believe there is a direct bridge and several tunnels to a place that has no business serving sushi, not with the plethora of authenticity that surrounds that neighborhood (Aki, Tomoe, Blue Ribbon, Yama etc.). But those patrons go to look at mirrors as well. Are they going for sushi or social status?

Another restaurant on seventh avenue that gets closer to serving food and sexiness on the same level is Centro Vinoteca. The former Batali protégé serves tasty nibbles, from perfectly fried pumpkin or eggplant cakes to savory stuffed mushrooms to earthy pate. Some of the entrees fall short of execution, or perhaps deep flavor, but once again this is massaged by all the eye candy at the bar edging you to order another lovely glass of Kerner gruner veltliner. The other night there was a lot of truffle madness for specials, but at $75. a pop I don’t care what type of models they’ve got strolling through there. The only issue here is that foodies have sniffed it out, and it is nearly as difficult to nab a seat at the bar as it is at Morandi’s.

A recently opened townhouse venture named Bobo’s has opened, and when you walk in you’re thrust into a romantic wonderland. Everything sparkles and glistens, and the people are decked out lovely. I’ve tried to have a drink at the bar three times without success, but I suspect, and this is merely a hunch, that the food will not match the décor.I will check to see if this holds true in the future.

A restaurant’s job is partly to evoke a mood by the change in atmosphere supported by the food, wine, and service. This is no small task, and that is why competition is so cut-throat. So the next time you’re elbow to elbow with an unusual amount of gorgeousness, beware of what you order, drink a little more than usual, and don’t believe the hype.

Categories
Drinking Wine

VDT

At one of the more anticipated tastings of the year, Louis/Dressner Selections hosted a Real Wines Tasting on October 17, 2007 at the Divine Studio revealing many Vin De Table wines that are often eliminated from official classification because they are atypical. Polaner Selections who distribute many of these wines was also present, making for a gala event of people who really care and know what’s going on in the wine industry. Winemakers such as Laurence and Eric Texier and Joao Roseira were present, as well as several wine writers such as Eric Asimov from the NY Times. I think there were a few models present too, either confused about their next studio shoot or coincidentally interested in great wines with great character, nonetheless a refreshing welcome to the red-stained shirts of tasters. Celebrities notwithstanding, there was a tremendous showing of knock-out wines whose emphasis in expressing terroir is achieved by some combination of utilizing wild yeasts, hand harvesting, low yields, natural viticulture, no or low chaptalization, and non-filtration. The result is just delicious, natural wines.

Going through all the wines tasting would require a six part report or series, so I will just impart a few impressions. A starting point was easy to choose, what with a full platter of oysters being offered for palate openers.

Larmandier-Bernier, a single grower-producer whose no dosage champagnes personify the genre was outstanding. Both the near 80% chardonnay and the Terre de Vertus were rich, full, and addicting. This was my palate cleanser for most of the afternoon. When in doubt, Terre de Vertus. Side by side was the chardonnay and gamay made by methode ancestrale, a wild effort that can only be applauded by the Beaujolais master.

Haven’t quite finished with the Blue Points yet, so I went on a wild pairing spree with Laurent Barth’s Sylvaner, Domaine de la Pepiere’s Muscadets, Domain du Closel, and the standout Luneau-Papin Muscadet d’Or, to name a few. My favorite were the Eric Texier viogniers with a touch of dulce. The Silex table was mobbed and under-bottled, so I spent a moment at Radikon, which made me yearn for truffles and foie. Those Ribolla Giallas were distinct and subperb.

Onto to Philippe Pacalet for Beaune reds made from ancient Pinot stock, where the argument is often is the Nuits-Saints-Georges better the the Chambolle-Musigny or the Gevrey-Chambertin, and which will age better?

Another jaunt to Larmandier-Bernier, and proper homage was paid to a table ripe with Beaujolias for Michel Tete, Jean Paul Brun, Clos de la Roilette, and Georges Descombes, wines which should be grace every Saturday lunch table. I skipped Clos Roche Blanche, Thierry Puzelat, and Clos du Tue-Boeuf, not only for time constraints, but also because those wines have nothing to prove. Year after year, these winemakers put out fabulous product at fantastic prices. You just can’t go wrong with any of these bottles.

I did a flight from the Roagna series, wines that are too young but allows one to speculate and dream about their futures. Then it was back to Eric Texier for the CDP and the Brezeme, one of my favorite values in the whole marketplace.

There was some noise from the west coast, with a very terroir driven Pinot Noir from Kalin. Ten guesses and I still wouldn’t believe it’s pinot from Cali. I enjoyed the Grenache blanc form Graves Monkey Wrench and some old-fashioned chardonnays from Whitehorn and White Helix too, demonstrating that care and technique works anywhere.

Chinon was well represented with Catherine & Pierre Briton, Bernard Baudry, and Olga Raffault, all limestone, gravel and clay goodness. There was a heap of Italian red and whites, but once again time was not my ally. A lasting sip of Larmandier-Bernier left a lasting impression as large as Joe Dressner’s Cuvee Buster t-shirt. VDT rocks, Vive terroir, Drink life.

Categories
Drinking Eating Food Wine

Spanish Presents

As there have been several celebrations for Spanish cuisine over the past month, I have used thise them as an opportunity to spread the love when it comes down to getting the perfect gift for friends and family. Spanish ingredients such as pimenton de la vera (paprika) and saffron are welcome additions to any home cook’s pantry. A good bottle of Spanish wine will compliment any great meal.

As far as old wines go, a bottle of Spanish wine from an older vintage (say 1970 – 1990) will cost you significantly less now to buy than say an Italian, French or Californian counterpart. Just compare the price of an old Barolo, Bordeaux or Burgundy to an old Rioja. You will be surprised at the discount. Recently, in celebration of my friend Jay’s birthday, I opened a wine from Bierzo from 1970. The bottle, from Palacios de Arganza, was spectacular, youthful, fresh, and full of yummy harmony. It had an intense aroma, elegant and complex. As part two of my present, I brought a haul in from Murray’s cheese shop, a selection of Spanish winners. For dinner Dr. L. made two types of lasagna, both of which we just could not stop eating. There was no room left for the cheese, but this is the report I received later:

herb:

Last night I demolished that cabrales. Tonight, I tore up that Arteserena di Serena. Both nights, I used the tortas to accompany.

The Cabrales was PERfectly ripe. Inhaled it. And that Arteserena di Serena is some crazy good *&%$#@. I enjoyed/appreciated it on the first taste, but, as you work through it, it’s extraordinary stuff. The texture is awesome and the thistle pungent flavor with the sheep’s milk is way stronger than one might imagine (in a good way). Maybe it’s for the advanced palate, but dang me that action is delicious.

Thanks again for a smashing birthday gift, senor.

If you wish to receive similar praise when purchasing a present for a foodie, just follow suit. And just wait until the jamon iberico passes thru customs!
Categories
Drinking Experiences Wine

The Great Match

On Thursday September 20th the Great Match was held at the Metropolitan Pavilion, an annual showcase for the wonderful world of Spanish wines and products. Industry people were let in at one o’clock, and kicked out at five sharp, to make room for the paying public who sampled tapas from some great Spanish restaurants.

These type of events are often marathons, and can be very taxing without discipline. With over 600 wines to choose from and a considerable amount of schmoozing, staying on task is the only way to go, which means spit, and only swallow what’s really good.

I happened to be looking for a good Albarino and Ribera del Duero, partly for the restaurant (Ostia), and partly for a chef friend of mine (Diego) who is getting hitched and seeking advice for the nuptials.

Many of the usual suspects (wine distributors) were present, and an afternoon of swirling glasses was interrupted only by the line for food at the table provided by Solera.

The hidden pearls of these tastings are always what I am after, followed by new vintages of known wines, and revisiting stuff I didn’t like in the past.

Starting with the whites, I gladly tasted several albarinos, two of which stood out from the pack. Both the Turonia and the Albarino de Fefinanes (both 2005) expressed outstanding balance and terroir. For an oaked version from DO Ribeiro, the Coleccion Costeira Treixadura Barrel Fermented 2006 also made a good impression for its style.

The wines from Ribero del Duero were not showing well, indicating that you Riberos usually require decanting or more time in the bottle before consumption. The offerings from Emina did however shine a bright spot. Despite 14.5% alcohol, the 2003 Emina Prestigio exhibited great integrated tannins, fruit and balance.

There were scores of great Navarra wines to taste, from Vina Sardasol reserve 2001 to Chivite Gran Feudo 2001, but the knockout wine of the evening was the Reserva Especial from Senorio de Sarria. The wine was flat out fantastic with a healthy price tag of $50.00 per bottle.

The usual suspects were present, from Montecillo, Torres, Faustino, and Marques de Riscal, to name a few. It was good to sample some standout efforts from Rioja producers like Miguel Merrino, Monte Real, and Vina Albina. With some bottle age, these wines expressed the elegance and beauty of la Rioja.

I found the cavas to be what I expected, yeasty and enjoyable to drink, save for a 2004 reserva from Agusti Torello, a 100% macabeo wine with distinct characteristics and great craftsmanship.

Last but not least, on to Jerez, where sherry reigns supreme. I’ve heard many an Englishman come into my restaurant proclaiming that sherry is the premier wine from Spain. After tasting olorosos, palo cortados, amontillados, and PX bottlings from Moe, Lustau, Sandeman, Tio Pepe, and Domecq, it is difficult to put up an argument.

For now I will enjoy all the diversity that Spain has to offer, old world and new, with its place among the world’s great wines both merited and secure.

Categories
Drinking Eating The Chef

Oyster Hunt

Now that spring has finally arrived (just check your allergies for proof), I have been spending all of my free time in the pursuit of my favorite pairing – oysters and champagne. This regal duo will transport you to the heavens. You will feel invigorated and sexually charged like no viagra could possibly accomplish. In Haiti, the locals polish off a good stew of conch called lambi, and this is the nationally renowned remedy for any man’s woes. In Santo Domingo, they men turn to mamajuana, a potent concoction also responsible for improved awareness. I have always wondered if these products have the same effect on women. At any rate, all of that sucking and slurping and bubbly has to lead somewhere…

In the city there are good options for pristine oysters, as one bad oyster can put you off for life. Start at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal for variety. This old-fashioned institution serves a variety of briny and sweet oysters form east to west coasts. The wine list is moderately priced, and you can find great values like a Roero Arneis from Peimonte which I quaffed last Monday. Chenin blancs and sauvignon blancs from Washington to Long Island round out the American list.

Pearl Oyster Bar is one of my favorite places, but I often cheat here and order a lobster roll too. Late night, you can head over to Blue Ribbon. Although it’s pricier ($3.75 ea), they are open after 2 am and it’s certainly worth it. And you need not go to an oyster specialist. Many top restaurants offer oysters. BLT Fish, Craftsteak, BLT Steak, Balthazar, The Neptune Room etc. Oysters are everywhere. Recently, I was dazzled by the oysters at Giorgione, an Italian spot on Spring Street(review forthcoming).

Yesterday, I was treated to a bottle of Duval Leroy vintage 1996 “La Femme,” which was light-bodied and ethereal, fragrantly delicious and elegantly bubbly. Not bad with some sottocenere (truffle cheese).

Remember. Life’s too short to drink bad wine and eat bad food. Eat life! Go find some oysters and champagne. Ole!