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The Chef

Restaurant Week in NYC

As restaurant week is once again upon us, the number of participating restaurants has continued to escalate each and every year. This is not necessarily a good thing. If the prix-fixe lunch special were an accurate indicator of what a particular chef is all about, then I would make reservations for two weeks straight. More often than not, the limited menu is uninspired. A meaningless salad here, some chicken redux there, berries on top of coulis and hope there was some wine ordered. I understand that this prix-fixe is not going to pay for the daily bread, but isn’t the object to introduce the diner to a chef’s distinct approach so that the customer will return to spend real money at a later date?

I am pleased that my first stop during this promotion was in midtown, where home-cooked elegant Greek food is the star at Anthos. Having been to Onera, the now renamed Kefi, in the past I had already been familiar with Chef Psilakas’ modus operandi.

If only one third of the restaurants could be as proficient at doing such a superlative job of enticing the patron to want more, then restaurant week would be a raving success.

Incidentally, Anthos already promotes a $28.00 lunch daily which resembles that being offered during this promotion. What other high end Greek restaurants set out to do Mr. Psilakis does a bit better, and that is to bring a grandmother’s food with a chef’s touch to the table. Flavors are bright, products are fresh, and appetites grow.

This becomes evident in no time flat. The few choices offered on the prix-fixe menu are enough to fight over. Do not miss out on the grilled octopus, easily the best in the city. The meal could have stopped there, but a lovely keftede of crab and fish updates the Maryland crabcake in fine fashion. And the sheep milk ricotta dumplings, divine.

The main course of branzino was cooked expertly with Mediterranean accents of cherry tomatoes and olives. A risotto with a zing of lemon was a bright bowl of harmonious rice. Desserts were refreshing in the guise of fresh yogurt with fruit, fennel and olive mint gelee, but the rose and white chocolate crema was a dessert dream, accented with passion fruit puree, almond crumble and rose dust.

I tried a couple of glass of white wine with the repast. The Retsina was herbaceous and delicious. Other whites were palatable, and a sure accompaniment to the Greek flavors. I’ll try the reds when I return for the lamb, sometime soon.

Reservations are easier for a late lunch, and as per my suggestion, plan for more than one.

Categories
Eating Food The Chef Travel

When in Philly…

Many U.S. cities take culinary pride in a specific dish, Chicago the deep dish pizza, New Orleans the po’ boy, New York the ideal slice and so on. In Philly for the weekend to see my friend GG compete in his 52nd triathlon, the debate over where the best Philly cheesesteak was a hot topic. Located across the street from one another, Pat’s and Geno’s do battle every day, 24 hours a day, for the title of best cheesesteak. The rivalry is fierce, and residents take sides as they do in New York over the best pizza pie, Grimaldi’s or Lombardi’s.

While many other establishments make their own versions of cheesesteaks and hoagies, the mere mention of eating a cheesesteak any where else is considered sheer blasphemy. After a late nite house party, I headed down with a new friend, Julian, to a raucous stomping ground of hungry patrons. It was almost four am, yet there was a formidable line at Pat’s. Looking over at Geno’s, there was much ado about nothing. “That’s because Pat’s is the best, and Pat’s was here first,” a native chimed in.

Geno’s looked like it belonged on Coney Island with the bright lights and big glitz of Vegas. Pat’s was more subdued, sporting an aluminum diner façade and steely cool vibe. The excitement could not be contained. The line was electric, tongues were salivating. “You have to know how to order,” my line mate declared, her enthusiasm unabashed. Cynthia was her name, a pretty Italian woman who had just had a night on the town with her friend Anna. “You have to say wiz with of wiz without,” Cynthia instructed. The “wiz” being cheese wiz, of course, and the “with” signifying onions. I had my moment, ordered and received my hero of gold.

There was a scramble for a table, but my new friends saved us seats. There really was no speaking from that point on, just incredulous looks of glee and satisfaction. Cynthia and I basically inhaled our sandwiches. I almost went for number two, if not for the line. We chatted about travel and told stories, and enjoyed the starry night. All walks of life were in queue, all races and classes represented, all united by the hunger of Philly’s best. The city of brotherly love was manifest, all over a cheesesteak.

I could not imagine Geno’s being better, but I decided to give it a try the next day. Without going into too much detail, in fact I can’t really put my finger on it, the slight edge goes to Pat’s, maybe because it was my first love, or perhaps because as Cynthia opined, “The bread is just much fresher.” I found the bread to be of similar quality. The differences are in the cut and flavor the meats. At Geno’s the meat is sliced thin. At Pat’s the meat is served in chunks. At Geno’s I found the sauce to be a little watery. At Pat’s everything was just right. You can’t argue taste. Those who love Geno’s are just as correct as those who love Pat’s. For me it’s Pat’s and that’s all she wrote.

Back in New York, I am savoring a cheesesteak, and the joints that sell it here don’t really cut it. I’ll try to make my own, but until the next time, I’ll be dreaming of Pat’s.

Categories
Eating The Chef

A gelato a day…

While spring still lingers a bit with late showers and evening breezes, I took the rare opportunity to see what all the hype about gelato on the upper West side was all about. Enough has been written about Grom, the Italian gelato chain that has finally made it stateside, that I feared I would be disappointed. It is easy to remember while in Rome, ordering that delicious gelato, leaving the counter, and trying to eat that cone as quickly as possible just so I could go back to buy a second one.

A good international product should transport you back in time to the place where you first enjoyed the delicacy, and Grom delivers.

Grom proclaims poetically about its quality and its scruples; only use the best raw artisanal materials to produce a genuine superior product. This means fresh fruit in season, no color or additives, and even the use of San Bernardo mineral water. Eggs come from organic chickens and coffee beans from Central America. The result is astounding.

Of the flavors I have tried, I found the Gianduja the most interesting. It had a chocolaty texture, but was refined and robust. The pistachio was superb, and the stracciatella outstanding. Because of Grom’s technique, you basically cannot choose a bad flavor. My least favorite flavors were the tiramisu and zabaione, but I suspect that was just merely a matter of taste.

It was not hot enough to try a granita, but out of the sorbets, the lemon was a knockout. The lemon is from the Amalfi coast, and I was blown away by the intensity of lemon. In East Harlem, there was an ice shop called Rex’s who would only open if it was 85 degrees or hotter. His lemon sorbet was tops. I think that Grom’s actually ekes out the number one spot here.

Grom offers containers to go, and you’ll find the prices extremely high, but you get what you pay for. If the line is short, and you’ve got ten dollars jingling around in your pocket, indulge yourself, you’re worth it.

Categories
Drinking Eating The Chef

Oyster Hunt

Now that spring has finally arrived (just check your allergies for proof), I have been spending all of my free time in the pursuit of my favorite pairing – oysters and champagne. This regal duo will transport you to the heavens. You will feel invigorated and sexually charged like no viagra could possibly accomplish. In Haiti, the locals polish off a good stew of conch called lambi, and this is the nationally renowned remedy for any man’s woes. In Santo Domingo, they men turn to mamajuana, a potent concoction also responsible for improved awareness. I have always wondered if these products have the same effect on women. At any rate, all of that sucking and slurping and bubbly has to lead somewhere…

In the city there are good options for pristine oysters, as one bad oyster can put you off for life. Start at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal for variety. This old-fashioned institution serves a variety of briny and sweet oysters form east to west coasts. The wine list is moderately priced, and you can find great values like a Roero Arneis from Peimonte which I quaffed last Monday. Chenin blancs and sauvignon blancs from Washington to Long Island round out the American list.

Pearl Oyster Bar is one of my favorite places, but I often cheat here and order a lobster roll too. Late night, you can head over to Blue Ribbon. Although it’s pricier ($3.75 ea), they are open after 2 am and it’s certainly worth it. And you need not go to an oyster specialist. Many top restaurants offer oysters. BLT Fish, Craftsteak, BLT Steak, Balthazar, The Neptune Room etc. Oysters are everywhere. Recently, I was dazzled by the oysters at Giorgione, an Italian spot on Spring Street(review forthcoming).

Yesterday, I was treated to a bottle of Duval Leroy vintage 1996 “La Femme,” which was light-bodied and ethereal, fragrantly delicious and elegantly bubbly. Not bad with some sottocenere (truffle cheese).

Remember. Life’s too short to drink bad wine and eat bad food. Eat life! Go find some oysters and champagne. Ole!

Categories
Drinking The Chef Wine

Spring Tastings

Springtime motivates me to re-dedicate myself to tasting more wines, as I look to exchange the heavier winter wines for lighter ones. So while you might pick up a bottle of rose prematurely, I still cling to some robust reds and whites that pack a wallop. Recently I attended two tastings which reinvigorated my spirit, if not my thirst.

At the Ibanez Pleven Offerings (IPO) gathering at Per Se, wine professionals spent the day slurping and spitting wines from what turned out to be a solid portfolio of French, Portuguese, California, and Spanish wines. I carry a few of these wines at Ostia, and was curious about wines outside the Spanish D.O.
There was a lovely chardonnay from Elke Vineyard (2004) which exhibited great minerality and good acidity. I really enjoyed the second label from Screaming Eagle, Jonata, especially the 2004 “la alma” from the Sanat Ynez alley. The style was more Bordeaux than California rocket juice, and look forward to seeing how these bottles will age in the future.

The Mas D’en Compte Planots, a Prioriato fashioned from 100 year old vines evoked spicy tickles and Languedoc sensibility. Gramona made its presence felt with better than avergae cavas from Penedes, but it was the artfully crafted godellos from Bodegas Val de Sil out of Valdeorras that had me humming. These wines glistened with golden hues and Burgundian elegance and floral beauty. Roger Sabon out of CDP was being poured as well, a treat for anyone.

A proper follow up a few days later was at the Polaner Selections tasting at the Puck building, a great venue for these type of events. Louis/Dressner Selections represented as well, pouring fab wines from Eric Texier, Catheirine and Claude Mafrechal to Michel Tete and Catherine & Pierre Breton. Top that off with Clos Roche Blanche and Domaine du Closel, and suddenly spitting is no longer an option.

I ran into a lovely Champagne by the name of Agrapart et Fils who sported a lovely Blanc de Blancs and Brut Rose with minerally, silky, elegant texture.

One corner of the room had a line up similar to the N.Y. Yankees. What would you say these heavy hitters: Emilio Pepe (’77-’04), Mascarello (’98-’04), Roagna (’96-‘0), Giacomo Conterno Barolos and Lopez de Heredia (’99-’73)? The 1976 Bosconia was unbelievable.

Back to work, tasting flights of Ricardo Palacions, Palacios Remondo, Rafael Palacios, Bodegas Olivares, Bodegas Artadi, Artazu, El Seque, Vinedos AAlto, Capcanes, and Quinta Sardonia, just to name a few, as finally I was able to say I clocked on for the event. All in all swift work in under two hours, as I barley had room for Tomasso Bussola’s amarones.

As I’ve told many a friend or customer, life’s too short to drink bad wine. So get out to a wine shop somewhere and start your spring tasting. After all, with the weather these days, summer is just around the corner.